IMG_1446This is one of my favourite dresses….Cecily! About and about in Brighton near where I live. IMG_150330At the end of this pattern blogpost (at the bottom of this page)  there is also a tutorial about how to use the skirt section of Cecily Pattern and make into a glorious gathered skirt like this one.IMG_1464You can buy Cecily Dress pattern from my Etsy shop here is a link……


CECILY PATTERNWhen I wear Cecily dress, I feel amazing, like I’m making a real statement about who I am, so I tend to make it in bold prints but it also looks great in more subtle fabrics such as the Kaufman railroad denim (shown above).

So this is a time to show yourself off….. you are amazing….. as we all are!

You can make this frock with or without the tie belt, but I prefer it with one (I just love a tie belt). This pattern has cap sleeves but on the latest addition of Cecily I have added a short sleeve template for those of you wanting a slightly longer sleeve.

Cecily is designed to be loose fitting on the waist so its more comfortable to wear, it has a side concealed zip too, but I can pop mine on without undoing the zip, so if you feel that inserting a concealed zip is beyond your skill level, try making it without. Of course, having a side zipper does make it easier to get on and off, and inserting a concealed zip is for some people easier than a standard zip. I have popped a concealed zip tutorial link below, so have a peek to see what you think or why not have a go, you will never look back if you conquer this technique.


Its a good idea to check your measurements against that on the pattern. If you are like me, a bit top heavy, go for the larger size that fits your bust measurements, you can always adjust to fit afterwards. The pattern is suited to a bust cup size B. If you need further bust adjustments see this useful video tutorial:


You may also need to lengthen the shoulder to waist length so measure your body from these points and adjust accordingly. Its a good idea (especially if you are using expensive fabric) to make up the bodice section in cheap fabric or calico first to see how it fits and to determine whether the pattern needs adjusting. It doesn’t take long to do and like that you can feel more confident, secure in the knowledge that the fit will be right. I want you to make lots of Cecilys (like I have), so tweaking it at the outset will give better results in the long run.Screen Shot 2019-04-30 at 21.08.54

You will also need a 30cm concealed zip and 20cm of lightweight fusible interfacing

Seam allowance is 1cm.

Finish all raw edges with an overlocker or zigzag stitch.

Here is an over view of the pattern instructions included in the pack with a few extra tips, it will give you a taster of how to make this charming frock:

Start by inserting the darts.



Sew the upper back pieces together.1b

Join to the upper front at the shoulders. Press seam allowances towards the back. 2a


Neck facings

Block press your facing pieces on to fusible interfacing3

Join at the sides. Press. Finish the outer edge.

Pin to the neck edge of the upper front and back.5

4Hand tack.6

Nick the curved seam allowance. Tip: reduce the bulk of the side cross seam allowances.7

Press over to the wrong side. Pin.8

Hand tack.9

Stitch evenly all around. careful as this stitch line will be seen on the right side so it’d better be good!10


Mark out your pleat position with pins on the front and back skirt section at the top edge.11

Fold the box pleats.12

Hers a diagram to help you.

diag 1 copy

Machine tack stitch1314

Sew to the upper front bodice with the right sides together.

diag 3b

Press. Tip: why not top stitch on the right side close to the seam on the bodice side.15


Pin to the left side of the skirt (see template for the position). NB if you are left- handed you may prefer to insert the pocket on the opposite side.16a

Press away from the skirt. Top stitch.16b

Insert the side concealed zipper here. Here is a link to my tutorial about how to insert a concealed zip with either a standard zip foot or a concealed zip foot.



After sewing in the zip, pin then sew the seam together below and above the zipper.

Join the front to back at the side edges from underarm to lower hem all around pocket.18


Sew the sleeves together at the sides. Press. 19

Hem the lower edge.20

Pin to the armhole, align the back section of the sleeve to the back body. Hand tack.21

Sew, make sure you have no puckers!22


Fold over and press 1cm to the wrong side of each long side.23

Stitch along each long side close to the edge. Press over 1cm each short side.24

Pin to the body 2cm in from each side. Stitch down with a small rectangle at each far end.25


Join the tie pieces at the short sides with the right sides together. Press seam allowances open.26

Fold the tie piece in half with the right sides together. Stitch down the long side and at a 45 degree angle at each far end to make a point, leave an opening of 4cm approx at the centre point. Trim the seam allowance to 5mm and Nick the corner point. Turn inside out through the opening.


Press. Topstitch all around which should close up the opening at the same time.28

Tie a big Esme tie at the front on your lovely dress.29

There you are! You can also wear without a belt like I have here…..

fiona in cecily worthing beach

Now time to pose!

So now what about making a skirt using Cecily pattern? IMG_1464This skirt is has a length of 75cm from the top of the waistband but of course you can make shorter (or longer) if you require. Just make sure you have some extra fabric if making longer!

Cecily skirt has two side pockets this time and the tie belt with loops that you had before on the dress. It has an elasticated waistband at the back and the same pleats on the front as the dress. Whats not to love! You can have a nice Sunday lunch and not feel tight around the tummy afterwards ….bliss!

I used this african cotton fabric which is fab and I’m going to upload some exclusive skirt kits on to my Etsy shop soon which will include fabric, interfacing, elastic and thread all packed up in a lovely craft bag so its all there for you.

So this is what you need:

2m of fabric (112cm wide) or 1.7m (150cm wide), 1m elastic and 10cm of fusible medium weight interfacing.IMG_1416Cutting out:

Front & Back (Piece 3) – Cut two.

Indicate the pleats on one piece only (i.e the front) with small notches within the seam allowance or mark with an invisible marker pen.  

Waistband Front – Cut one piece 10cm wide by the length:

size 8= 40cm, size 10= 43cm, size 12= 46cm, size 14= 49cm, size 16= 52cm, size 18= 55cm, size 20= 58cm.

Fuse the reverse side of the front waistband piece only with interfacing. 

Back waistband – Cut one piece 10cm wide by length:

size 8= 98cm, size 10= 101cm, size 12= 104cm, size 14= 107cm, size 16= 110cm, size 18= 113cm, size 20= 116cm.

Tie Belt (piece 9)- cut two on the fold.

Tabs (piece 8) – Cut four.

Seam allowance is 1cm. Finish the raw edges with an overlocker or zigzag stitch.

RST= Right Sides Together. WST= Wrong Sides Together.

This is what you do:IMG_1417

Make your box pleats on the skirt piece that you have notched with the pleat markings just as you do on the Cecily dress. Pin to hold. Tack stitch across the top edge of the skirt piece to hold the pleats in position.IMG_1420IMG_1422Pin the pocket at each side of the front and back in position as shown on the template. Sew down the straight edge. Press away from the skirt. Top stitch on the pocket side.IMG_1424IMG_1423Pin the front to the back with the RST at the side edges and all around the pocket. Sew.IMG_1419IMG_1425IMG_1427So with the front waistband piece interfaced, join to the back waistband piece with the RST at the short sides to make a ring. Press the seam allowances open. Then fold the waistband ring in half with the WST so the raw edges are aligned all around.IMG_1429Unfold the band and pin the elastic at one side at the seam allowance at each side extending the elastic across the back waistband. Of course its not as long as the waistband piece but of course its not stretched out yet.

IMG_1430 So you can pin your waistband together aligning the raw edges thus encasing the elastic. Now its back to the machine to tack stitch it along the raw edge within the seam allowance so approx 5mm from the raw edge all around. Tip: keep moving the fabric beyond the elastic as you go.IMG_1436Make your four tabs the same as you would with Cecily dress pattern.

Pin and tack stitch in position to the waistband or skirt top edge align with the side pleats and 30cm in from the side seam at each side on the back. Tack stitch to hold.

IMG_1438Pin the waistband to the skirt with the RST aligning the side seams and matching the waistband back to the skirt back section. Sew. Finish the raw edge together.IMG_1439


Fold under 1cm the tab piece at the raw edge and pin to the top edge of the  skirt waistband. Stitch to hold.IMG_1446

Press the waistband seam allowance upwards on the reverse side then topstitch all around the waistband securing the seam allowance in position. IMG_1447

Insert your tie through the tabs and tie in a lovely bow. Then strike a pose!C skirt 1 copy




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I absolutely adore wearing this tunic, its stylish, light and airy, roomy due to its pleat at the front neckline and has two gigantic pockets at the side. Its a perfect holiday tunic or perfect for just about any occasion. Oh and its also very easy to make!

I made Hilda in hand block printed Indian Indigo cotton, which I think works so well. Hilda suits fabrics such as linen, viscose challis, lightweight cotton or any medium to lightweight fabric that drapes nicely. Hilda Tunic is sized 8-18 but some people have kindly asked for information about sizing up the pattern, so here is a link to a You tube video which I think is really clear and helpful on this subject.

Prior to making please check the finished garment measurements. If you make a hem of 2cm you can lengthen your tunic to a maximum of 97cm with 2m of fabric if required.


You can purchase HILDA dress pattern here:

BUY PATTERNScreen Shot 2018-07-29 at 21.44.42

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You will also require 20cm of light/med weight fusible interfacing

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LETS TALK ABOUT FABRIC….By the way, I do have a Hilda Kit which includes the pattern, 2.5m of indian block printed voile fabric, thread and interfacing all packed up in a lovely recycled kraft bag which looks like this……Etsy Hilda kit blog

Alternatively you might like to use one of these fabulous indian block printed cotton fabrics from slubbedprints.co.uk.

There are many to choose from and I think they are just fabulous!Screen Shot 2019-12-17 at 14.11.08Screen Shot 2019-12-13 at 15.12.03


Firstly iron all your fabric pieces.

Tip: Its a good idea to trace off the pattern pieces on to dressmaking pattern paper, newsprint or wide baking paper, keeping it intact so you can pattern share. The pattern templates are printed on sturdy paper so I would advise ironing the pattern pieces after cutting them out with a cool iron (no steam!).

Cut out the following pieces using the above Layplans above as a guide:

FRONT (1): Cut one piece with pattern lined up to the fold of the fabric.

BACK (2): Cut two (align pattern to the vertical grain of the fabric)

FRONT FACING (3) & BACK FACING (4): Cut one piece with pattern lined up to the fold of the fabric. Interface both pieces with fusible interfacing to the reverse side.

SLEEVE (5): Cut two on fold of fabric.

POCKET (6): Cut four (two pairs)


Seam allowance is 1cm which is included on the pattern.

Finish all raw edges with an overlocker or zig zag stitch. 

Press in between stages of sewing to obtain a better finish.

RST= Right sides together. WST= Wrong sides together. 

  1. MAKING THE FRONT PLEATIMG_9639Make an inverted box pleat at the centre front neckline as shown on the template. Stay stitch all around 5mm from the raw edge to secure the pleats. Here is a diagram to help you….

diag 1

2. POCKETSIMG_9643Next pin your pockets at each side of front and back with the RST in position as shown on the template.IMG_9645Sew down each straight side of the pockets (NB seam allowance is 1cm).

I like to finish the raw side edges at this point, but you could do this after the side seams are sewn together if you prefer.

Press the pocket away from the tunic. Top stitch the seam line 3mm approx on the pocket side.IMG_9646IMG_96473. SEWING THE FRONT AND BACK TOGETHER

Now, pin, then sew, the front to the back at the shoulder edges with the RST. Finish the raw edges and press them towards the back.IMG_9650IMG_9648below shows the reverse side view …IMG_9649

4. MAKING THE NECK FACINGIMG_9652 With both facing pieces interfaced on the reverse side, pin then sew them together at the short sides with the RST. Press the seam allowances open.IMG_9654Finish the raw outer edge only all around. If you don’t have an overlocker you could fold under and press the outer edge 5mm approx and sew all around, it makes it look much neater. Or for a quicker job just overlock it.

Here is a picture of a neck facing in another colour with an edge turned under 5mm approx. to show you what it should look like.

IMG_1034IMG_9656Pin the neck facing to the neck raw edge with the RST, aligning the cross seams at each shoulder. Sew all around. IMG_9660Nick the seam allowance at the curved edges with small V’s and reduce the bulky side seam allowances to 5mm. I also trim the cross seam allowances at the side seams to 5mm to make it less lumpy.IMG_9664

Turn the neck facing to the reverse side and press so that the fold is aligned with the seam line all around.

Now, its not written on the pattern, but sometimes I like to Understitch the neck facing. So, you sew a line of stitching all around the neck facing, a few millimetres from the seam on the facing side, this helps to hold the facing in place, its not essential, I have left this out on many occasion, but with some fabrics it helps to keep the facing in place.

IMG_9661Secure each side of the neck facing at the shoulder seam allowance with a few hand stitches to secure in position. Now heres a tip: if you have some wondaweb why not sandwich a few pieces here and there underneath all around and press to secure the facing a little more in position, especially at the centre front and back.

5. SEWING THE SLEEVESIMG_9665Pin the sleeve curved edge to the body at sleeve edge with the RST aligning the centre point to the shoulder seam. Sew. Finish the raw edge. Repeat for the other sleeve.IMG_9666Press the seam allowance towards the sleeve.

Top stitch on the right side, 3mm from the seam line on the sleeve side.


IMG_9669With RST, pin the front to back at the sides, under arms and all around pockets. Sew. Finish the raw edges. Press.IMG_9673 Just a couple of snips under the arm at the seam allowance will prevent it bunching up.IMG_9670

Fold over 1cm then make a nice big 3 or 4cm hem at the sleeve edge.

Sew approx. 3mm in from the inner fold.IMG_9671

Fold over 1cm then make a 2cm hem at the lower edge and stitch as before or hem to the desired length. If you would like to keep the tunic as long as possible you could hem it using bias seam binding or make just a small 1cm hem.

Finally give your tunic a good press. Ta daH!!!!   There you have it!





Leave the sleeves off for a cap sleeved version is pretty nice. Ideal for popping on under a cardi and as you see in the pic Ive made a matching mini bag too. This is made in a crisp African Dutch Wax cotton fabric which Im a big fan of!



So heres a lovely quick accessory to make out of the scraps you would probably just chuck away. Suitable for floppy viscose fabrics which make great scarves, probably not for more medium weight fabrics but hey give it a go.


So first cut two equal strips of fabric the longest and widest length possible from whats left.IMG_0994

Join them together at the short sides. Press.


Fold in half width ways aligning long raw edges. Pin. Fold over at a right angle triangle at each far end and press.


With a 1cm seam allowance, sew along one long edge and across the triangle end, using the foldline as a guide. Trim the excess fabric. Remember to leave an opening at the centre for turning inside out.




Turn inside out through the opening. Push out the corners. Press so the seam is in line with the fold.


Finally stitch up the opening by hand with a small slip stitch.

Ta dah! There you have it!

Simple but oh so lovely.

For more Sewgirl news follow me on instagram or sign up to my newsletter via my website. All the very best to you X Fiona


All images and text are the copyright of Fiona Hesford. Please do not copy without prior permission. Contact info@sewgirl.co.uk for details.




Screen Shot 2018-05-13 at 20.52.06

Screen Shot 2018-05-14 at 00.12.17When I was asked to make a dress for the Baftas award ceremony, I must say my initial reaction was one of trepidation. But when I found out it was for my friend Jane’s niece, Daisy May Cooper, one half of the uber talented ‘This Country’ BBC 3 comedy duo, well I just couldn’t resist.


For anyone familiar with the award winning mockumentary, Daisy aka Kerry Mucklowe and her cousin Kurtan (real life brother and writing partner Charlie) are a hapless pair of yoofs getting up to all sorts of trouble in a quiet Cotswold village. The series is up for several awards, namely Best Scripted Comedy and Daisy is also nominated for the Best Comedy Actress. Not only that, together they have been chosen to present the ‘Best Soap’ award, one of the highlights of the evening, so to say that I was feeling the pressure would be an understatement, but equally over the moon to be involved in this amazing opportunity.

Daisy’s original dress

Daisy had recently found a gown which had inspired her to commission a dress made in the style of her character’s favourite attire- a Swindon Town football club shirt….a genius idea! The trapeze shaped dress was made in a black silky fabric, edged with silver sequinned fabric all around the hem, neckline and cuffs.  Although short in length at the front, the hemline swept gracefully almost to the floor at the back and the neckline featured an interesting double band of sequin trim. Its potential was obvious to see. If  copied in red fabric with white trim, it would accentuate the spirit of a football shirt, albeit a glamorous one.Screen Shot 2018-05-11 at 10.42.49 copy

Screen Shot 2018-05-11 at 10.47.15

Firstly, we had to find a suitable fabric. A polyester crepe fabric from Minerva Craft seemed to fit the bill, I had used it a while back for a Sew magazine project and I thought would be ideal, being lightweight, possessing wonderful drape and the perfect shade of ‘Swindon Town FC’ red colour that we were looking for. After ordering some swatches, 3.5m of bright red fabric was winging its way to me along with five metres of white sequin elasticated trim. Gulp! there was no going back now!

WP_20180423_16_56_47_ProDrafting a pattern from an existing dress is something I do quite often and as it fitted Daisy well, there weren’t any adjustments to make, it seemed quite straight forward. To make things easier, I removed the sleeve of the dress to make a pattern from it. After cutting out, and stitching up, the dress was ready for its first fitting.

WP_20180424_16_42_04_ProAt this stage, I’d just pinned on the sequin trim as we weren’t too sure how much to use. I was worried that edging the entire hem risked the dress resembling a Father Xmas outfit!IMG_9219Lettering was traced off onto bonding web and felt which was pinned temporarily to the front and back. My son Alfie, an avid football fan and graphic designer had found the perfect football typeface to use for the word ‘Swindon’ on the front and ‘Mucklowe’ on the back. We had also retrieved a badge and the number 1 from a bought football shirt to give it an authentic feel. It was all coming together nicely.IMG_9211The biggest hiccup was that the dress fell too short. At the fitting it was decided to omit the sequin trim around the hemline, thus not having any weight to anchor it down, so after a bit of wangling, another 15cm or was added on, ensuring a nice border all around the edge that now skimmed just above the knee. Daisy is quite tall at 5ft 9 and she would be wearing high heels so the extra length was definitely called for. Fortunately the extra hem panel added a detail enhancing the style of the dress.

Our measuring tool!


IMG_9223With all the letters securely fixed, it was then a question of laboriously hand stitching on the sequin trim which took several sessions over a couple of days. I had visions of them falling off in mid speech Theresa May style, so I made sure they were stitched on securely.

IMG_9213Making sure the dress was kept clean was paramount, so handling it was kept to a minimum. Finally came the pressing bit which was a very stressful affair. Laying a sheet underneath the ironing board helped, I kept the iron on a low setting, worried that I would burn a hole in the fabric last minute and ruin everything. A cool iron with a protective cloth and lots of steam later the dress was finally finished.

What a relief!

IG square


IMG_9288As an afterthought I had an idea to make a matching quilted purse with a loop handle so Daisy could sign autographs and carry her belongings. So after quilting the fabric with wadding and stiffening it with fusible interfacing to give it stability, I made a simple clutch bag with a magnetic clasp, slipping in the loop last minute. I was dead pleased with the result.



Charlie (aka Kurtan) came to pick up the dress with his mum as Daisy was on holiday which was a surreal experience having a celeb at your home but he was totally adorable and their Mum was charming too. they loved the dress and I was delighted how it had come together.

Daisy was over the moon with the finished article.  And they bought home two awards at the Baftas! It all went crazy on social media but I wasn’t surprised. What a result!

Well done Daisy and Charlie!

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Click a link to listen to these interviews with Fiona about THE Dress!

Radio Wiltshire Fiona interviewed by Ben Prater       scroll to 1:58

BBC radio live drive Fiona interview with Rachel Bland      scroll to 2:25



I love this dress. I mean I REALLY love it!

I love its swingy shape, I love its retro trim, useful pockets, Ive made myself so many of these Ive lost count.

I named it Orla because Im a big fan of Orla Kiely and also 1950’s vintage aprons, you know the ones that are edged with glorious bias binding in contrast colours. Well this pattern is my homage to them both.

Its easy to make, trapeze shape, darts, its got great side pockets and an optional front placket with 3 buttons, bias trim edged neckline and short sleeves.

Hope Ive sold it to you! Theres other Orla variations at the bottom of this page to tempt you.

Available in sizes S/M/L/XL


Heres a guide to sizes/ fabric requirements etc.

Screen Shot 2018-04-11 at 18.27.20

Remember the seam allowance is 1cm.

This is how to make it….

Cut out your size dress pieces. You should have front, back, sleeve, front placket (an optional front and back facing if required). Alternatively you can use bias binding as shown in these pictures to achieve that retro look.

This is what you do:

Sew back pieces together. Leave the top section open as shown on the pattern or insert a zipper into the seam. If you want a tutorial on how to insert a zip see my A-line skirt post.


Sew the darts. Shown here on a different fabric. 1

On the placket piece, edge with bias binding with the RS of the binding facing the RS of the placket piece. Stitch. Fold the binding over to the reverse side. Press.


Place on to the dress front, make sure its dead centre. Then stitch in the ditch around the outside of the bias trim. You can also stitch around the outside edge but I like to leave it like a little flap.

Stay stitch around the neckline (front and back) at this point close to the edge (5mm approx).


Now sew the front to the back at shoulder seams. RS facing. Finish the raw edges. Press shoulder seam towards the back.

Now you can see that I have left the back seam open but you might have put in a zip which is also good.


Attach the top neckline edge with seam binding. Pin to the RS then sew. Fold over to the WS. Press. Pin. Stitch by hand (best in my opinion) or machine stitch to secure.


Try to match the width of the neckline binding with the front placket.


Don’t forget the pockets! Stitch at each side RST with pocket facing inwards. One for each side. Be careful to make sure they are aligned. Then fold outwards and top stitch close to the seam line on the pocket side.

IMG_4779Now you can pin and sew your front to back. All along from under arm to bottom hem on both sides. Don’t forget to finish the raw edges!

IMG_4792Now to the sleeve bit. Fold over the sleeve pieces RS facing. Pin then sew at the side edge.

Finish the raw edges. Tack stitch at the sleeve head.


Pin the sleeve to the armhole. Make sure you have your back section to the back of the dress. If in doubt check the pattern.

IMG_4794Tack stitch all around.


Sew on the machine then finish the raw edges.


All you have to do now is attach your binding to the sleeve edge and hem the lower edge.

Oh and sew on your three buttons.


If the back seam is open at the top, I insert a hook and eye or a chain stitch loop and tiny button.

One last thing. As the hem edge is very flared due to the trapeze shape its best to hem with seam binding its also easier to sew….just saying! remember to ease the binding into a curve before attaching.

You can also make some variations. Here for example I edged the neckline with same fabric bias binding that I made myself and sat it behind the neckline edge. This is fab Echino linen mix fabric. I love this print.

ORLA with sleeves jpg

I also made a longer version in this stretch poplin.

Mid calf Orla

Then why not make a sleeveless version like this one which I made from a fabulous vintage curtain. Ain’t it fab!

I also edged the hem too with binding.

ORLA sleeveless

This one I added a neck facing which is included on the pattern. I like this print, its so Scandi. I often wear this one with jeggings and pumps.


Anyway thats all for now.

Why not make yourself an Orla for Spring/Summer or to take on holiday ?


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Who doesn’t love a groovy apron? Its the place where you can wear loud patterns to add zing to your kitchen. Frankly Im completely addicted to sewing for my funky kitchen so much so I replace labels on pots of (bought) jam and chutney like so…..IMG_8228Making a matching jar topper in the same fabric as your apron is just pure joy, and simple to do, just cut a circle out using a saucer or small plate as a template or print off a template here Jam topper template and secure with a cord ponytail band (available everywhere). Would you like a Funky Kitchen label to print off ? well here you are then. funky kitchen label – for your own personal use please! Just cut them out and stick on with a bit of Pritt stick (other glues are available!)  they look nice too printed off onto coloured paper.

From my FUNKY KITCHEN PATTERN you can make an apron, tea cosy and an oven mitt.

Then I make a matching …..IMG_7967 yep you guessed it…Tea cosy. This one is un quilted so if you don’t have a walking foot that is probably easiest. If you want to quilt it to make it more structured, it will look like this…..

IMG_8370 and what about then a matching ……IMG_8374

yup oven mitt. Corr… thats kitchen porn as far as I’m concerned, all in fabulouso African fabric which is not only easy to find (ebay), you can get in either 6 yard bales or buy by the metre. Its sturdy stuff too, perfect for aprons and kitchen accessories…..So where was I, oh yes, My Funky Kitchen. This is what the pattern looks like…..

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You can see included on the sheet is a template for an apron, oven mitt, tea cosy, pot holder, jam pot topper and some ‘Funky Kitchen‘ labels to cut out and stick on your homemade (or bought) jam or chutney for example.

Funky Kitchen patterns are available to buy as hard copies posted or PDF downloads from: HERE and you can follow these step by step photos how to make them, Funky Kitchen is absolutely great for beginners or anyone who just loves making fun easy stuff. So switch on some music, get yourself a piece of homemade cake and a cuppa and enjoy sewing your Funky Kitchen.

You will need:


A pair of scissors, pins, iron, invisible marking pen, poking tool such as a chunky knitting needle, chopstick or blunt ended pencil.

NB. When sewing projects with thermo interfacing sewing will be made easier if you use a walking foot attachment* to your machine.

Fabric Requirements:

Apron = 1m of fabric (if your fabric is 112cm wide you will need an extra 30cm if you want a pocket in a different fabric). NB. you could always use a different fabric for the ties and pocket as an alternative for extra quirkiness.

Tea cosy = 30cm x 80cm of main fabric, lining fabric and thermolam wadding. 1m of 25mm wide bias binding (or make your own from the left over fabric).

Oven Mitt =25cm x 70cm of main fabric, lining fabric and insul-bright interfacing and 50cm of (25mm wide) bias binding.

Pot holder = 25cm x 50cm of main fabric and insul-bright interfacing and 1m of bias binding.


Cutting guide: from your fabric cut the following pieces:

Cut one apron front piece on fold of fabric.

Cut one neckband piece.

Cut two tie pieces with pattern lined up to the fold.

Cut one pocket piece if you have sufficient fabric or in a contrast fabric.


Fold over and press a 1cm then again 1cm then stitch along to make a small hem at the two slanted top side edges of your apron front piece.


Next make your neck strap and side ties.

So fold the strips of fabric in half lengthways matching the raw edges and with the RST* (right sides together). Pin then stitch along the open side all the way down.


With the side ties only stitch across diagonally as shown on the template at just one end then trim off the excess seam allowance leaving a 1cm approx margin.


Now turn inside out so grab yourself a poking tool (as mentioned above in equipment section) and push the tie or neckband inside out.


Then iron your ties so the seam lines are aligned with the fold.


Alternatively , if you find turning inside out too tricky you could just fold and press the long raw edges 1cm then fold the whole band in half and press. Stitch down the sides close to the edge and then hem the ends.

Right so with all the ties and neckband made why not top stitch them on the RS* (right side). I always think it finishes it off so much better and I love a bit of topstitching!IMG_7280

Next we sew the neckband into the apron, so first double fold over and iron a 1cm hem at the very top horizontal edge of the apron. Now before you stitch it just tuck in the raw edges of your neckband under the fold and pin to hold ….hanging downwards towards the apron like this….IMG_7281

Be careful not to twist your band so it should be the same sides facing down each side.

Then stitch across from one side to the other sewing in the neckband straps as you go. Finally fold straps up and stitch across at the upper edge of the hem again like this….IMG_8242

You will need to sew in any loose ends of course. Brilliant. Now to the side ties….

Fold over and press 1cm then again 1cm at the side vertical raw edges each side. Now tuck the raw edge end of the apron under the fold just like before with the tie extending towards the apron.


Then stitch down the side hem close to the inner fold.


Next you just fold back the tie just like you did before with the neckband and stitch again.

IMG_7288 All thats left to do now is to hem the lower edge.


and there you have a lovely funky apron!


To add a pocket make a 1cm double fold hem at the top edge of the pocket piece. Fold over and press the remaining  three sides 1cm. Pin the pocket on to your apron front in the required position tack stitch all around by hand. Sew around the three un-hemmed edges about 4mm from edge, make a small triangle at the top two corners to enclose the seam on the inside. remove tacking stitches.


So to make an oven mitt is a joyful thing, a perfect companion to your lovely apron don’t you think! (up there with cake I’d say!)

The fabric requirements are at the top of the page.

First I start quilting my fabric pieces together, to do this you may need a walking foot attachment which looks like this…*

Screen Shot 2017-11-04 at 16.10.38 copy

A strange looking thing I know, but it does make it SO much easier when quilting multi layers of fabric and wadding together but if you haven’t got one, don’t despair, you could either try stitching it without one or just leave out the quilting bit (tack stitch your fabric together to hold layers in place).

So firstly lay your pieces together main fabric RS up followed by a layer of thermo interfacing then a layer of lining RS facing outside. Pin to hold.


Draw a diagonal line using a marker pen on the fabric layers at the centre.1b

You can stitch lines 4cm apart  using the long quilt guide, lining it up to the previous stitching. Stitch across one way and then the other until you have a trellis like pattern.


Do the same for both pieces, then place your template on top of the fabric and cut out two mitts NB cut one with template facing up and one with template facing down so you have two pieces mirrored.


Pin the mitt pieces together with main fabric right sides together. Stitch all around with a 1/4″ (6mm) seam. Zig zag the outer raw edges all around and nick into the corner between the thumb and mitt to allow for movement.


Turn your mitt inside out and push out edges with a poking tool.


Nearly there now, just a few things to do before we arrive at Oven Mitt Heaven!

First lets make a tab loop so we can hang it up on display for everyone to see.

To do this we cut a strip of fabric 10cm long by 4cm wide.

Fold over and press 1cm each long side like so….


Then press over in half and stitch down each side like this……


Insert your loop at the top edge of the mitt and tack stitch on the machine close to the edge like this….


Next we stitch some binding at the top edge so either cut yourself a strip of fabric 4cm x 32cm (fold and press 1cm each long side) or use some ready made bias binding available at most good haberdashers. You could use an accent colour from your fabric print to enhance the design. Bind the top edge of your mitt thus encasing the raw edges.


There you have one fab mitt.


See above for fabric requirements.

This is what you do:

Sandwich your 3 fabric pieces together with the RS of fabric outermost and the thermal interfacing in the middle. Pin all around.

Draw one line diagonally in each direction, across the top fabric at the centre with an invisible fabric marker.IMG_8331

Then stitch along the line, using a stitch line guide, what is that! I hear you say…..

here it is you’ve probably seen one in your accessories box and wondered what it was for.


well  fitted onto your machine at the back of your foot or walking foot, it helps you keep straight lines, parallel to each other at the set required distance from each other.

Nifty huh?IMG_8332

So once you have quilted all your tea cosy it should look like this on the front…IMG_8335

and like this on the back…


Next you cut out two tea cosy shapes using the template on your pattern sheet.


Now we put the little loop in at the top. So cut a strip of fabric 4cm x 10cm in either the main fabric, lining or use a strip of bias tape. Pin, then stitch on to one of the tea cosy pieces at the centre of the top like this….


Place the two tea cosy pieces together with the right sides facing each other. Pin all around then stitch 6mm from the edge all around (except the bottom straight edge of course…derr!). Zig zag the outer raw edge.


Then turn it inside out, pushing out the seam edges from the inside.

So just one more thing to do, thats the binding. You can use bias binding, which looks nice when you pick up on one of the colours in your print pattern (yum!) or make your own by cutting a 4cm strip of fabric and folding over 1cm on one long side (WS on the inside). IMG_8346

Pin one unfolded edge of the binding to the RS of the tea cosy at the lower raw edge. Stitch along the fold.IMG_8347

Fold over the binding to the reverse side. Pin, hand tack stitch to hold in position then stitch in the ditch* on the machine on the RS, ensuring the stitching holds the binding on the reverse side.





There you have a lovely tea cosy.


And if you fancy making a pot holder like this:


just cut out two pieces in main fabric and one piece in Thermolam from the pot holder template, a strip 4cm x 10 cm in main or contrast fabric and you will need a metre of (25mm) bias binding too.

Layer your pieces just as you did for the cosy and machine quilt in much the same way.

Make your loop that you have stitched just like the teacosy one (above) and tack it in to the centre edge of one side.IMG_8343

Sew your binding on all around, overlapping about 1cm at the cross over section.

There you have it. Ta dah!

One very Funky Kitchen!


Making Rosalind is easy just a couple of hours of fun.

Download the pattern from www.sewgirl.co.ukIMG_4475Gathered at the neckline

Ros top hr jpg

Boxy shape sits on the hips.

IMG_4480Short capped off the shoulder sleeves

IMG_4479Cute little covered and slit opening at the back for a retro look

1Pic 12Pic 23Pic 34Pic 4

6Pic 57Pic 6/78Pic 89Pic 910

Pic 1011Pic 1112DIAGRAMS

cutting diag jpeg
Cutting layout
diag 1
Cut the necklines
diag 2
gather the front neckline
diag 3
Attach the facings
diag 4
Hem the lower and side edges
diag 5
Sew up the sides

Pic 12