Screen Shot 2016-02-05 at 15.45.55pattern available to buy from 

This is a pattern for a lovely matching lined hat, big beach bag and sunglasses case. Suitable for medium to heavyweight fabric such as cotton, denim, canvas or corduroy. Simple to make, the bag and purse have a magnetic clasp flap with button.

BAG MEASURES 43cm X 66cm (inc. handles)
SUNGLASSES CASE MEASURES 18cm x 12cm approx.

You will need:
BAG=1 metre of main fabric, 30cm of lining fabric, one magnetic clasp and one large (3cm) button.

PURSE= 25cm of main fabric, 25cm of lining fabric, 25cm of med weight fusible interfacing, one small magnetic clasp and one button.

Screen Shot 2016-02-05 at 16.47.33


Cut out your bag pieces following the layout diagram.
You will need:
Two bag pieces A and B together in main fabric (cut one piece on folded fabric) lay the pattern piece as close to the end of the fabric as possible and make sure you have placed it so you have enough fabric leftover for the facing piece.
Trim down the dotted line on the pattern then cut two pieces of facing piece B in main fabric (see layout diag) ie cut one on folded fabric and two pieces of lower piece A in lining fabric.
Cut two flap pieces (one on folded fabric).

Screen Shot 2016-02-05 at 16.47.49

Firstly pin the flap pieces together RST, sew around with a 1cm seam allowance. Nick curves then turn inside out pushing out the edges with a knitting needle or chopstick.
Attach one side of your magnetic clasp to the flap so nick two little holes on one layer only at the marker point. Push the prongs of the clasp through then push together on the inside.

Screen Shot 2016-02-05 at 16.47.56

With the RST pin together the lining piece A with the facing piece B then stitch a 1cm seam across. Repeat for other side. Top stitch on the RS.

Screen Shot 2016-02-05 at 16.48.04

Take one main bag piece pin the flap to the centre front top edge with the magnetic clasp facing up then tack stitch to secure in place, remove pins. (see pic).

Screen Shot 2016-02-05 at 16.48.19SEW UP THE SIDES
Now with the RST pin together the two main bag pieces at lower sides stitch a 1cm seam. Repeat for lining pieces but this time leave an opening in the lining for turning inside out.
Clip curved seams at corners.

Screen Shot 2016-02-05 at 16.48.36SEWING THE HANDLES
Turn the lining bag piece only inside out so the RS is visible.
Place one bag inside the other so the RST matching up all the raw edges of the handles on both sides, keep the flap tucked in between the bag and facing. Pin then stitch all around handles over the side seam then up and down the other side so your stitching finally ends where it began. Nick all curved seams and cut across corners (careful not to nick your stitching!). Turn your bag inside out through your opening.

Screen Shot 2016-02-05 at 16.48.47
Stitch the two front bag handles together with a square and a cross in the centre (see template).
Attach the other magnetic clasp in the bag front matching the position show as a X on the template.
Finally stitch up the opening in the lining.

There you have one great bag!

Now what about making a matching sunglasses case? ……..

CASECASE by Sewgirl



Screen Shot 2016-02-05 at 15.45.55                                         templates available to buy from IMG_1437

A fun hat project and bag and sunnies case to match. I used gorgeous “Aunties Attic’ fabric by Robert Kaufman but you could use any thicker cotton fabric such as cotton, denim, canvas or corduroy. Simple to make, the bag and purse have a magnetic clasp flap with button.

The hat comes in two brim sizes small (pictured) and large and fits a 57cm size head.

You will need: a sewing machine, an iron, needle and thread, pins and scissors.

MATERIALS REQUIRED: Hat (small brim)= 50cm main fabric, 20cm lining fabric and 50cm of med weight fusible interfacing.
Hat (large brim)= 60cm main fabric, 20cm lining and 60cm med weight fusible interfacing.


PATTERN LAYOUT Screen Shot 2016-02-05 at 15.37.36


CUTTING OUT THE PIECES- In the main fabric cut two BRIM pieces following the fabric layout as shown in DIAG A. ie place pattern pieces adjacent to the fold. Cut one BRIM piece in interfacing with pattern placed against the fold.
Now open fabric out and following the fabric layout DIAG B cut one SIDE PANEL in outer fabric, one piece in lining fabric and one in interfacing. Cut notches as indicated.

Cut out one CROWN piece in main fabric (DIAG C), one piece in lining and one in interfacing cut notches as indicated.


SEWING THE CROWN -Trim off 1.5 all around all the interfacing pieces outer edges then iron on to the main fabric pieces of crown, side panel and one of the brim pieces.

Screen Shot 2016-02-05 at 15.38.27
Fold the side panel in half with the right sides together (RST) and pin together at short side, then stitch a 1.5cm seam. Press seam open.

Pin the outer crown to side panel at notched edge with RST starting at the side seam, nick the edges of the side panel and crown so they fit snuggly together matching the notches as you go.
Tack stitch to hold pieces in place, then stitch on the machine with a 1.5cm seam allowance careful that you don’t stitch any folds into the seam.

Repeat in the same way for the crown lining and side panel so you have identical ‘caps’ in outer and lining fabrics.
Top stitch the main fabric ‘cap’ on the RS by stitching 4mm
below the seam.


SEWING THE BRIM – Take your two brim pieces and with the RST pin together at the short side then stitch a 1.5cm seam so you have two rings. With the RST pin the two brims together at the outer edge then stitch all around a 1.5cm seam.

Now trim this seam allowance to 6mm (1/4”) approx. Turn the brim inside out so the right side of the fabric is visible. Press and push out the seam edges all around and pin together the raw edges at top.


So back to the machine, adjust your stitch length to 3 and stitch lines all around your brim approx 1.5cm apart from the raw edge to the brim edge. Sew in ends. Press.

ATTACHING THE BRIM TO THE CROWN- Pin the raw edges of the brim to the raw edges of the outer side panel ‘cap’, start at the side seams then pin all around. Tack stitch to hold in place making sure the raw edges are lined up, clip seams if required. Stitch a 1.5cm seam all around hat. Press seam flat then top stitch on the RS if you fancy it.

1011JPGATTACHING THE CROWN LINING – Take the hat lining ‘cap’ and fold over the raw lower edge 1.5cm. Pin to the inside of the hat at the join wrong sides together. Hand stitch all around with little stitches so they are not too visible then turn your hat inside out and there you are one lovely hat!HAT by Sewgirl JPG

Copyright Sewgirl 2015 This pattern is not for commercial use


Screen Shot 2016-02-05 at 15.45.55DSCF9964pattern available to buy from 

This is a pattern for an easy to make and very cute pair of floral viscose shorts. Perfect for taking on holiday, they take up little room in your suitcase and viscose fabric doesn’t crease as much as cotton and drapes beautifully. With a comfortable elasticated waistband at the back only and two useful side pockets, whats not to love!

FABRIC REQUIREMENTS: 1 m floral med weight viscose fabric, 10cm x 42cm lightweight fusible interfacing, 50cm of 2.5cm width elastic.

EQUIPMENT- sewing machine, needle and thread, tape measure, pins, scissors and a safety pin.

Seam allowances are 1cm unless otherwise stated, raw edges must be finished either with a zig zag stitch or by using an overlocker.

Check your measurements against the chart for your size.Screen Shot 2016-02-04 at 17.10.28

CUTTING OUT THE PATTERN PIECES– Press your fabric and fold in half widthways so the selvedge edges are lined up and the RST. Lay your fabric out on a table and pin on your pattern pieces to the folded fabric see pic for layout guide pic 2. You will see the size markings at the sides, so cut out your pattern according to your size. Cut notches outwards away from seam.


Lay pattern pieces on the straight grain of fabric indicated by the arrows. When you cut out each piece on a double layer of fabric, you will get two pieces of each pattern piece mirrored.

3JPGCut the following pieces: 1 x FRONT (2 pieces altogether), 1 x BACK (2 pieces altogether),

1 x POCKET A (2 pieces altogether), 1 x POCKET B (2 pieces altogether)

then cut on a single layer of fabric the following: 1 WAISTBAND FRONT and BACK

and 1 WAISTBAND FRONT in lightweight fusible interfacing.

SEWING THE SHORTS FRONT –Firstly, remove your pins and paper pattern, take the FRONT piece and mark out your pleats with pins at each A , B, C, D position. Now fold over a pleat in the fabric so that A pin meets B pin and with the fold of the fabric at the reverse side and lay fold towards centre front. Pin to hold. see DIAG 1

Repeat with C and D so you have two pleats at the top edge folded towards the centre front on the reverse side.


Now repeat with other FRONT piece as before. Tack pleats to hold them secure then remove pins.

7Screen Shot 2016-02-04 at 16.49.25

Pin one POCKET A piece to one of the FRONT pieces at notched edge, in position as shown on the pattern see DIAG 2. Stitch with a 1cm seam allowance. Finish raw edges. Trim ends.

89Repeat for other FRONT piece.

Screen Shot 2016-02-04 at 16.49.32

10Fold each POCKET to reverse side of FRONT then press, so that folded edge is pushed out at the seam. Take one POCKET B piece and pin to POCKET A at outer edge. Stitch with a 1cm seam allowance, finish raw edges, trim ends.  See DIAG 3

11JPG12JPGLay each FRONT piece on a table and pin and tack stitch POCKETS at side seam and top edge to hold secure.

1314With right sides of fabric facing each other, sew FRONT pieces together at centre front with a 1cm seam allowance. Trim curved part of seam only to 5mm, finish raw edges. Press seam flat to one side.

BACK of FLORAL SHORTIES- With right sides of fabric facing each other, sew the two BACK pieces together at centre back with a 1cm seam allowance, trim curved part of seam to 5mm. Finish raw edges, trim ends. Press seam flat to one side.


17JPGPlace BACK and FRONT pieces together with right sides of fabric facing each other. Pin at each far side, matching raw edges, then stitch a 1cm seam at each side so BACK and FRONT are joined. Finish raw edges. Stitch crotch seam with a 1cm seam allowance. Finish raw edges.

MAKING THE WAISTBAND-Iron on the interfacing to the reverse side of WAISTBAND FRONT piece. Join the WAISTBAND FRONT and BACK pieces together at each short end with right sides of fabric facing each other, so you make a ring. Finish raw edge and press seam flat. Fold over and press waistband lengthways, so right sides of fabric are outermost and wrong sides facing each other.

With shorts turned right side out, take the waistband piece and, matching up side seams, pin to top edge of shorts so that raw edges are matching, make sure waistband front is lined up with front of shorts.

20JPGSew a 1cm seam allowance all around, leaving a 3cm opening at one side seam.


Finish raw edges together except at 3cm opening.

21Now to the elastic part. You need to place the elastic to the back waistband section only, adjust to fit, then stitch down at each side seam to secure inside. To do this, attach a safety pin to the end of the elastic and feed one end in through the 3cm opening and pull through the waistband front section until the end of elastic is at the opposite side seam to the 3cm opening with the remaining length of elastic extending around the waistband at the back of the shorts.

Stitch down across waistband seam to secure elastic in place at one side. Pull elastic through opening, pin, try shorts on and adjust elastic to fit. Trim excess elastic.

23Stitch across waistband at seam to secure elastic. Stitch seam opening and finish raw edge. Zig zag raw edges at lower edges of shorts legs then turn over 1cm hem, press, pin, then stitch all around.

24There you have one lovely pretty summer shorties.

Copyright Fiona Hesford 2014



Screen Shot 2016-02-05 at 15.45.55pattern available to buy from

This is a cute swingy skaters skirt and easy to make and wear made from gorgeous organic cotton jersey with a fabulous pony print in purple and white from: I added a couple of side pockets (I love a pocket but leave them out if you prefer) and theres no zip so its an easy pull on style.

TIPS FOR SEWING JERSEY-Use a jersey/stretch or ballpoint machine. I used a size 70. For stitching seams which will be stretched its best to stitch a small zig zag stitch ie 1.5 width and 2.2 length to allow for ‘give’.

Finish raw edges with a zig zag or overlocker.

FABRIC REQUIREMENTS: 1.2m fabric at 150cms wide or 1.4m of fabric if your fabric is 112cm wide

SIZE GUIDE Small = 8-10, Med = 12-14, Large = 16-18 Size info

Finished Hip measurements: 8 -10 (small) 87cm – 91.5cm , 12 -14 (med) 96cm – 102cm, 16 -18 (Large) 107 cm – 112cm

Finished length from top of waistband 48cm for all sizes.

TEMPLATE GUIDE: (1)= skirt, (2)= pocket, (3) = waistband.1JPG


Press your fabric and fold in half lengthways so the selvedges are lined up. Start by cutting out out your templates as follows:

Template 1: skirt With pattern lined up against the fold of the fabric cut out two pieces (front and back) cut along the required size line and cut notches outwards.

Template 2: pockets (optional) With the remainder fabric cut out the 4 pockets ie cut out two pattern pieces on folded fabric so you have four pieces altogether. Make sure the pattern is lined up to the straight grain of the fabric.

Template 3: (waistband) With the template lined up to the fold, cut one piece to the required size.


HOW TO SEW YOUR SKATING SKIRT-Starting with the side pockets and with RST lay a pocket piece on to the skirt at each side between the notches. Stitch a 1cm seam at pocket only. Finish raw edge of pocket seam and press pocket open away from skirt. Stitch again close to the seam (4mm) on the RS.

Repeat for all four pocket pieces so each skirt piece has a pocket piece at each side.


Lay one skirt piece on top of the other with RST. Pin at sides and around pockets matching up the raw edges. Stitch a 1cm seam and finish the raw edges together. Press.


WAISTBAND-Taking your waistband piece, fold over in half widthways matching up the short ends with RST. Stitch a 1cm seam along this short seam. Press seam open so you have a fabric ring.


Fold waistband strip in half along the long length with RST matching up the raw edges.


Pin to top raw edge of skirt all around, stretching it a little as you go so the waistband is distributed evenly all around. Tack stitch to hold in place, remove pins.8JPG

Stitch a 1cm seam with a small zig zag stitch and stretch a little as you go this will allow the seam to extend when stretched. Finish raw edges.


HEMMING THE SKIRT-Nearly done now so finally finish the raw lower edge of your skirt and turn up to the required length, pin then stitch all around close to edge on the WS. (NB. A 2cm hem will make the skirt 48cm long from the top of the waistband).IMG_1363

There you have one lovely skater skirt.


Screen Shot 2016-02-05 at 15.45.55



SIZES 8-20

Suitable for beginners.

This is a loose fitting hip length kimono which looks great in all seasons, either for a special occasion or as a loose fitting cardigan. With a wide front band, two optional patch pockets, and french seams on the inside, its an easy, fun and quick to make.

I made this kimono in this beautiful Liberty pure silk satin, shown above,  other suitable fabrics include viscose fabric, cotton, linen or any fabric that has a fluid drape quality.

It can also be made in thicker fabrics for colder days as a kind of jacket, which gives a completely different look.


Suki was demonstrated on The Sewing Quarter TV channel on 23rd April 2019 so if you fancy watching me make it here is a You tube link. Just scroll up to 3:00 to watch the one hour show.


Suki Kimono is sized from 8-20 (scroll down to see the finished measurements chart)

You can adjust the size and length.


For a guide to how to size up the pattern, I have uploaded a link to a Youtube tutorial below to show you how to do this.  Please note that you may need extra fabric when sizing up and layout may have to be adjusted, so check first before buying your fabric that you have enough fabric to fit all your adjusted pieces.



You can make the kimono longer by using the larger sizes length lines and still be within 1.5m fabric. (Of course you can make as long as you like but you will need to buy extra fabric in this case.)  Make sure if you do lengthen to another size that you also cut the band pieces in the same size too, so for example, if you make a size 12 kimono but a size 20 in length, then cut out two size 20 band pieces….simple!

One other thing is that you can also lengthen a further 2cm by making a smaller hem on the lower edge, instead of 4cm as specified on the pattern. Important! remember to add on an extra 2cm to the band length to accommodate the extra length in the body in this case.

So the maximum length for 1.5m fabric, using the size 20 length line and a 2cm lower edge hem is 69cm approx. 

The pattern is available to buy on the website, click on the link below for details.


Scroll down for a photo step-by-step tutorial showing how to make up Suki Kimono.


Tips for sewing silk/satin/ viscose:
When sewing silk use a finer thread and insert a ballpoint needle in your machine.
Use sharp pins and pin in the seam allowance to avoid leaving holes in the fabric. 
Make sure scissors are also sharp and nick free. 
Try not to handle the material unnecessarily which can cause it to fray. 
Adjust your iron to a ‘silk’ setting and take care with steaming, it can cause water marks. 
Lay a sheet, old blanket or duvet underneath your fabric when cutting out to prevent it moving about.

How to sew a FRENCH SEAM *Sew seams using a french seam. This is a technique used to conceal seams which are visible by stitching twice, once with the wrong sides of the fabric facing, then again with the right sides of the fabric facing. Its an ideal technique for fabrics that are light and prone to fraying and garments where the inside seam  is exposed. To make a french seam, firstly pin, then sew a 5mm seam with the WRONG SIDES  together.  Next, fold your fabric pieces so the RIGHT SIDES are together and press and pin so that the seam is aligned to the fold. Stitch again, this time with a 1cm seam allowance, encasing the raw edges inside. Finally, press your french seam to one side.

FABRIC REQUIREMENTS: See the chart below for fabric requirements.

You will also need: thread, an iron, pins, a hand sewing needle, a poker (a chunky knitting needle is good or a chopstick).

Screen Shot 2019-04-16 at 22.04.53


Pattern pieces for FRONT (1), BACK (2), SLEEVE (3), FRONT BAND (4), POCKET (5)

Screen Shot 2019-04-16 at 22.12.43

Here we go!


Using the Layplans above as a guide, cut out the following pieces:

FRONT (1)– Cut two.

BACK (2) – Cut one on the fold.

FRONT BAND (4) –  Cut cut two pieces.

POCKET (5)– Cut two pieces.

SLEEVE (3)– Cut two pieces on the fold of the fabric.




Pin the front pieces to the back at the shoulder seams with the right sides together. Sew. Finish the raw edges with a zig zag or overlock to prevent fraying. Press the seam allowances flat towards the back piece. Topstitch on the right side. 7Now pin your sleeve piece to the body at the armhole edge, sew.

Press the seam allowance towards the sleeve. Top stitch. Repeat for the other sleeve.


Pin the front to back at the side edges with the WRONG sides together. Sew a 5mm seam.

Turn inside out so the RIGHT sides are together, press with the seam aligned with the fold.  Pin. Sew another 1cm seam encasing all the raw edges. Press.




On the lower edge all around, fold over and press to the wrong side 1cm then again 3cm. Pin. Sew

Make the same hem on the sleeve raw edge.




Join the front band pieces at one short side to make one long strip with a 1cm seam allowance. Press the seam allowances open. Topstitch either side of the seamline.


Fold over and press 1cm all along one long side of band.


Starting at the centre of the back neck and with the right sides facing together, pin the unfolded long side of the band to the back neck and front at each side, pin all around to the front sides either side, aligning the raw edges as you go and make sure to leave 1cm of band fabric extending beyond the body front lower edge on each side. 


Stitch a 1cm seam allowance all around from front left side to front right.

Press the band away from the body with the seam allowance pressed towards the band on the reverse side. Top stitch on the band right side.

Screen Shot 2019-04-16 at 22.53.26

At the far ends of the front band at each side, fold the strip ends in half widthways with the right sides together and the raw edges matching, opening out the 1cm fold a little at each end. Pin, then stitch across in line with the body front lower edge up to the fold line.

Trim the seam allowance to 5mm, cut across the corners of the seam allowance then turn inside out to right side, pushing out the corners gently with a poker.201.jpg


Press the band over to the wrong side all around so that all raw edges are encased inside. Pin, then hand stitch the band at the folded edge all around with small slip stitches. Its a good idea to line up the fold of the band to the line of stitching previously made. Make sure your stitching is as neat as possible. If  you would like to have front ties** on your kimono scroll to the bottom of this page for instructions to make and insert before sewing the band.


Finally press your kimono.


POCKETS (optional)

Screen Shot 2019-04-16 at 23.12.38

Finish the raw edges of two longer sides and one short side of the pocket pieces.

On the unfinished side, fold over to the wrong side 1cm, press then again 2cm. Press. Stitch.

Fold over and press 1cm on the 3 un-hemmed sides to the wrong side.

Place in position on to the kimono. Pin. Top stitch all around, reinforcing the top corners.

**FRONT TIES (optional)

Cut two pieces 60cm x 4cm.

Fold over 1cm to the wrong side each long side and press. Fold the piece over again in half so you have a piece 60cm x 1cm. Tuck under one raw end. Tip: secure the folded short end with a small piece of quilting tape or wondaweb. Stitch close to the folded edge. Press.

Insert your ties raw edge under the band approx 1cm s cure with a few hand stitches before hand stitching your front band.



This easy quilted clutch purse makes a lovely addition to a kimono for a special event. With its optional loop handle, useful for carrying lipstick, powder compact, money and keys.

Finished size: 23cm x 16cm approx


You need:

25cm x 50cm of outer fabric, lining and wadding (2oz or fusible H640 wadding)

One small magnetic clasp

One vintage button

A 15cm diameter saucer or circle template.

Cutting Guide

Cut out one piece each in outer fabric, lining and wadding 24cm wide x 44cm high.

Cut out one strip 4cm x 25cm in main fabric (loop handle).


Fuse/spray glue your wadding to your outer piece reverse side.

Quilt your bag outer piece as required, I stitched lines at a 45 degree angle 5cm apart.

Using a saucer or 15cm diameter small plate, mark a curved line at the two top corners only of the bag quilted piece and lining piece. Trim.

Make your loop handle:

Fold over 1cm to the wrong side at each long side. Fold again in half. Pin. Topstitch down each  long side close to the edge. Place to one side.

How to make the purse

Lay your bag piece and lining RST. Pin. Sew a 1/4″ seam allowance all around, leaving a 4cm approx opening for bagging out, at one side seam near to the uncurved edge.

Snip the curved seam allowances at the two top corners. Turn your bag inside out. Push out the curved edges from the inside. Press.

With the lining upper most and curved section at the top, fold up the bag lower straight edge section 15cm wrong sides together. Pin at the sides.

Before stitching the sides, insert the male part of the magnetic clasp into one side of the lining flap 2cm from the curved top edge central position with the prongs just pushed through the lining not the outer fabric/wadding. Insert the female clasp part 6cm centrally down from the top straight inside edge through the outer/wadding fabric and open out the prongs on the inside between the lining.

Insert the loop tie at the side, pushing the 1cm raw edges in between the side edges. Pin. Top stitch down each side 5mm (1/4″) from the edge and all around the flap thus closing the opening and securing the ties all in one go!

Sew on a gorgeous button on the flap right side in the same position as the magnetic clasp.

There you have it!



suki front cover 1

Copyright Fiona Hesford. All rights reserved


Matilda Dress


Screen Shot 2016-02-05 at 15.45.55pattern available to buy from 

Matilda dress is an over the head easy to wear everyday tunic. It has four sections on the front and top stitched along the seams ideal for plain denim fabrics, linen or cotton fabrics with a small all over print (no pattern matching yippee!) Its got two deep pockets (I love a good pocket), length set in sleeves, flattering A-line shape and a back opening with retro rouleau and button detail.

Materials required:

Fabric 150cms wide (with or without nap) you need: 1.70m

Fabric 112cms wide (no nap) you need: 2 m

Fabric at 112cms wide (with nap) you need: 2.6m

Also Light or Med weight fusible Interfacing 25cms, a reel of thread and 1 button.

All seams are 1cm unless otherwise specified. Finish all raw edges with a zig zag or overlocker.

Tips on top stitching: Set the machine needle position to B (ie shifted to one side) and adjust stitch length to 2.4. Line up the seam to the centre of the foot as you sew and your line of topstitching will consistently be 4mm away from the centre seam.

SIZE GUIDE: SMALL = 8-10, MED = 12-14, LARGE = 16-18

Finished garment bust: S= 95.5cm, Med = 104cm, Large = 114cm. Finished length (inc 3cm hem) : S = 90cm, Med= 91.5cm, Large = 116cm

TEMPLATE GUIDE: (1)= Upper Front, (2)= Lower Front, (3) = Upper Back, (4) = Lower back, (5) = Sleeve,(6) = Front facing, (7) = Back facing, (8) = Pocket, (9) = Rouleau.

LAYOUT FABRIC 150cms                             LAYOUT FABRIC 112cms (no nap)3jpg4JPG4a JPG

CUTTING OUT THE PATTERN PIECES Press your fabric and fold in half lengthways so the selvedges are lined up RST. Start by laying out all your pattern pieces using the layout diagram as a guide to positioning your pieces. Pin, cut out pieces as below (NB cut notches away from garment). Mark dart dots, back opening and sleeve head marker dots with tailor tacks.

Templates 1 (Upper Front), 2 (Lower Front), 3 (Upper Back), 5 (Sleeve), 7 (Back Facing): Cut two pieces on folded fabric (line up the pattern on the straight grain of the fabric).

Template 4: (Lower Back) and 6 (front facing) Line up pattern against the fold and cut out 1 piece.

Template 8: (Pocket ): Cut one piece on folded fabric so you have two pieces altogether (call these Pocket A pieces) then trim off shaded area of pattern and cut a further one piece on folded fabric so you have another two pieces (these will be Pocket B pieces).

Template 9 (Rouleau): Lay your pattern on the diagonal grain of the fabric and cut out one piece.

Interfacing: Cut out 1 front facing and 2 back facings in interfacing.



SEW THE DARTS -Stitch your darts at each Upper Front piece. Press dart downwards.



SEWING THE POCKETS-Lay one pocket B piece at each Lower Front side at matching up notches at upper curved edge and with the RST. Stitch a 1cm seam along the curved edge. Nick curves, turn to RS. Press, top stitch along same curved edge on RS.


Pin lower curved edge of Pocket A to Pocket B piece, stitch 1cm around curved edge, finish raw edges. Tack stitch pocket at top and side edges to secure in place to garment. Repeat for other side.



SEWING THE FRONT PIECE -Lay your Lower and Upper Front pieces on a table RST. Matching the raw edges, pin at centre seam and stitch a 1cm seam on each side. Press seam upwards, finish raw edges. Top stitch on RS 4mm approx above the seam. 13 PG


Now lay the left and right front pieces together with RST. Pin at centre seam, stitch together with a 1cm seam. Press seam open, finish raw edges separately so the seam is flat open on the reverse. Sew two lines of top stitching on RS and LS 4mm approx away from centre seam.


SEWING THE BACK PIECE -Pin together the left and right upper back pieces at centre back seam with RST. Stitch up to the marker point where the opening will be. Finish raw edges separately along the complete length of the CB seam and press flat open. Top stitch on RS two lines either side of CB seam. Pin the top raw edge of Lower Back piece to lower edge of Upper back piece with RST. Sew a 1cm seam. Finish raw edges, press seam upwards. Sew a single line of topstitching on RS. With RST join back to front at shoulder seams with a 1cm seam allowance. Finish raw edges. Press seams to back.


SEWING THE SLEEVES-Adjust your stitch length on the machine to the longest length and your tension dial to loosest (usually 9). Stitch a line 1cm in from raw edge between marker dots (as indicated on the template). Readjust your machine settings back to normal. Pull one thread on each side to draw up stitches ‘easing’ in the sleeve head. You don’t want the fabric to gather up too much it just needs enough to ease it into the sleeve head. Pin the sleeve head into the armhole with RST notches to the back. Adjust easing so sleeve fits snuggly. Tack stitch sleeve head. Stitch a 1cm seam around sleeve head. Finish raw edges. Nick any curve seam allowances. Press. Top stitch on RS (optional). 23JPG

Stitch the front and back together at side seams of body and sleeves with RST. Finish raw edges. 26aJPG26bJPG

MAKING THE ROULEAU- Firstly make your rouleau by folding the fabric strip in half lengthways with the RST, pin then stitch along the long side leaving a long end at one side so you have 0.5cm finished width approx. Trim down your seam allowance to 0.5cm. Thread a chunky needle with the end and pull through the little tube and out the other end. Pull the threads and the tube should turn itself inside out. (very satisfying!). Place on one side.24
SEWING THE NECKLINE -Iron on the interfacing to the reverse side of front and back facing pieces. Join the back pieces to the front at the short sides with RST. Press seam flat open. Finish outer curved raw edge.


27JPGPin to neckline all around with RST. Insert your rouleau loop into the CB seam allowance adjust so theres a big enough loop for your button, pin to hold. Tack stitch all around neckline and down each back facing short side at seam allowance. Stitch on machine all around neck edge then remove tacking.28

Finish raw edges, nick curves. Trim across corners (careful not to cut your stitches) and excess rouleau ends. Turn to RS pushing out corners with a poker. Stitch a few hand stitches at the facing side seams to the inside seam allowance to secure in place. 29JPG

Finally sew on a button on opposite side to rouleau.

HEMMING YOUR TUNIC DRESS-Press over hem 1cm on lower edge of dress and sleeve then fold up again to the required length. Press, pin and stitch all around close to the inner fold. NB For the sleeve hem remove the machine front table so you can insert sleeve edge more easily.


There you have one lovely everyday tunic dress.

Copyright Fiona Hesford 2014 All rights reserved

Agnes Tunic


Screen Shot 2016-02-05 at 15.45.55 

This dress is an over the head easy to wear everyday tunic. Loose fitting with two patch pockets, a loop and button opening at the front and a simple shape suitable to be made in a variety of fabrics such as cotton, viscose, denim or linen. 

Materials required: Fabric 140/150cm wide (with or without nap) you need: 2m 

Fabric 112cm wide (with or without nap) you need: 2.3 m

 Light or med weight fusible interfacing 25cm,

  • A reel of thread

  • 1 button (2cm)

  •  Equipment  required:
  • A chunky sewing needle,
  • A poking tool.
  •  All seams are 1cm unless otherwise specified.
  • Finish all raw edges with a zig zag or overlocker.

AGNES TUNIC layout and size guide

 SIZE GUIDE : SMALL = 8-10, MED = 12-14, LARGE = 16-18. 

Finished garment length (inc 3cm hem) from back neck = 90cm (35.5”)




CUTTING OUT THE PATTERN PIECES –Fold your fabric lengthways with the wrong sides facing together (WST). Press. Lay flat on a table. Now lay out the pattern pieces as shown in the Layout diag 1  according to your fabric width.

Sizes are marked along the outer edge of the pattern pieces, so check for your size line.If your fabric pattern has a direction, place the pieces the right way up.

  • Pieces (1), (2), (3), (4) cut one piece lining up the pattern to the fold of the fabric.
  • Piece (5) cut two pieces with the pattern lined up to the fold of the fabric.
  • Piece (6) cut one on folded fabric so you have two pieces and
  • Piece (7) cut one on a single layer of fabric on the diagonal of the fabric grain.

Interfacing: Cut out another front and back facing piece (3) and (4) in interfacing. Iron to the reverse of the facing pieces.











SEWING THE SHOULDER SEAMS-Pin FRONT (1) to BACK (2) at shoulder seams with right sides of fabric facing each other (RST). Stitch a 1cm seam along shoulder seams. Finish the raw side edges of shoulder seams with a machine zig zag stitch or overlock to stop them fraying. Press seams to back.


MAKING THE ROULEAU- Fold over piece (7) longways with RST, stitch along the long open side with a 1cm seam allowance, leave a long thread end. Trim your seam allowance down to 0.5cm. Tie the long thread end on to the eye of a chunky needle with a rounded point and push through the rouleau and pull so it turns inside out. Place to     one side.



NECK FACINGS-After ironing on the interfacing to the reverse side of the facing pieces mark the CF line on the front facing as shown on the template with a pencil. Now, stitch FRONT FACING (3) to BACK FACING (4) at short side seams with a 1cm seam allowance.

Press seam open, then zig zag raw outer edge all around. Pin, then tack stitch facing piece to tunic at neck raw edge with RST, matching up the side seams first then pinning all around, make sure the front opening part is matched up to the centre front line. Remove pins. Sew a 1cm seam all around neck edge.



MAKING THE OPENINGRemove tacking stitches. With pins to hold front facing in place, draw a line with tailors chalk or a fine pencil line either side of front opening as shown, then stitch along this line round and up with a 4mm (1/4” seam allowance) following stitch line as indicated on the pattern. Cut down centre line to marker as indicated on pattern. Nick all curved edges around neck edge. Snip across corners and into the lower section of opening at front taking care not to cut any stitching.


INSERTING THE ROULEAUStitch rip open the seam just a few stitches 1cm down on one side of centre line just enough to poke through your rouleau loop into the seam with the loop facing away from centre.  Adjust to the desired size for your button, you can trim off any excess afterwards, then stitch together seam again. Trim off excess loop ends.


Turn the facing right side out pushing out corners and press seam. Stitch a few hand stitches at inside shoulder seam allowance to secure facing to garment. Finally sew on a lovely button.



ATTACHING THE SLEEVESNow we sew on the sleeves. Take the sleeve piece and matching up the notches, pin to body at sleeve edge with RST. Stitch a 1cm seam along each side then finish raw edges. Press seams up towards dress. Repeat for other sleeve.


SEWING UP THE TUNIC –If you are inserting back ties, cut two strips 8cm x 70cm stitch your ties first by folding the tie pieces in half lengthways, then stitch a 1cm seam down one long open side and one short side. Trim across the corners then turn inside out using same method as the rouleau.

Pin the raw tie ends at each dress front side seams, raw edges matching. Tack stitch in place. Pin dress together at the side seams with the RST, stitch a 1cm seam along sides and up to the sleeve then finish the raw edges. Clip curved edges at side seams below armhole.


HEMMING-Nearly there now, so to hem the sleeve, press over 1cm (3/8th”), then again 2cm (1/2”). Pin all around, then stitch close to inner fold to make a hem (NB remove front table on machine to insert sleeve). Turn up lower hem of dress to required length and hem as before.


POCKETS 1Zig zag finish the raw edges on 3 sides of each pocket pieces, leaving one short edge unfinished. Fold over 1cm on this unfinished edge and press, then fold another 2cm and press, then stitch to form a hem at top edge of each pocket. Fold over and press each zig zagged side 1cm.


POCKETS 2-Place the pockets in the desired position, pin then tack stitch by hand. Stitch on the machine around the three sides reinforcing the stitches at the top with some reverse stitching.

Ta dah! One lovely tunic!