LOTTIE DUSTER COAT

Lottie Duster Coat low resLottie Duster, a coat or dress depending on what fabric you use. Pop it on as an extra layer in Autumn or Spring, its a useful addition to your wardrobe. Easy to make, suitable for adventurous beginners. If you are fazed by the buttonholes just leave them out, personally, I wear Lottie open most of the time anyway.

Make in lovely linen, delightful denim or for a dress version a medium weight viscose fabric.

Lottie Duster has a four button closure, raglan sleeves, revere collar, optional tie belt and flap detail pockets…….Its a classic!

Lottie is available as a hard copy pattern and also as a digital download here…IMG_2009BUY LOTTIE PATTERN 

Here are some essential size and fabric requirements information…..

LOTTIE BACK

You can watch my demonstration on The Sewing Quarter (Wednesday 18th Sept 2019) at 9am and 11am.

SEWING  QUARTER  SHOW

Getting started

Working with linen is a joy but it does crease rather, so I usually have my bottle of spray starch at the ready.

IMG_2108

Firstly iron your fabric, I like to pop a blanket on my work surface and iron my fabric in situ, I find it a lot easier. I use paper weights to keep the larger pieces stable and pin just the smaller pieces. Once you have cut out the all pieces you just need to interface the back neck facing. I don’t interface any other piece because I think the facing needs to be kept soft and fluid.

Here are pictures of the step by step stages of making Lottie coat with edited text from the pattern with a few extra tips, so you can see if its something you might like to make before you buy.

SEAM ALLOWANCE IS 1CM

If you are the smaller end of your size i.e. a size 8/12/16/20 then you could sew a 1.5cm seam allowance to compensate.

Use an overlocker to finish the raw edges or sew a zig zag stitch or pink with pinking shears.

THIS IS WHAT YOU DO……….

COLLARIMG_2062IMG_2069The collar is made by sewing the outer curved edge without the notches then after nicking and trimming the seam allowance its turned inside out, pressed then top stitched. Then tack stitch along the raw edge to hold together. Place to one side.

FACINGSIMG_2063IMG_2064After interfacing the back facing, pin to the front facing at the shoulders. Stitch. Press the seam allowances open.

IMG_2070Turn under the outer edge 1cm and press. Then stitch. Turn under the lower edge of the facing 1cm and stitch.

JOINING THE SLEEVES IMG_2067Sew the front sleeve to the front at the slanted edge. Join to the back sleeve. Join the back sleeve to the back. Finish the raw edges. Press. Repeat for the other side.

IMG_2073Join the front to back at the side seams, leave the lower section open for the side slits. Finish the raw edges above the slit section. Press.

SIDE SLITSIMG_2077IMG_2078Nick the seam allowance just above the slit section to open the seam at the lower section.  Fold over the side slits at the raw edge 1cm then again 2cm. Press. Sew.

IMG_2075Press under the hem at the lower front edge 1cm then again 2cm. Sew.

COLLAR & FACINGSIMG_2079Starting at the centre of the back neck, pin the collar at the centre point to the neck edge matching up the notches to the sleeve seams.IMG_2083Starting at the back neck, pin the facing piece at the centre of the back facing with the RS together to the collar.IMG_2084

Pin the facing all the way down the front edge at each side.IMG_2085With the lower edge of the facing turned under and stitched 1cm, align at the lower edge.IMG_2086IMG_2087Hand Tack!IMG_2092You might like to mark the curved stitch line with an invisible pen to help you as it is important that both sides are the same.

IMG_2089Stitch!

IMG_2094Nick the curved seam allowances. Trim the seam allowance to 5mm.IMG_2096Pin to the reverse side and press so that the seam line is aligned with the fold. Push out the collar with a poking tool to get the curves.

IMG_2097Pin the facing all around.

IMG_2100Top stitch all around 1cm from the edge.

IMG_2099Make a hem at the sleeve raw edge. Fold over 1cm then again 3cm. Press. Pin. Stitch.

POCKETS IMG_2103Pin the pockets RS together. Stitch all around leaving a small opening at one side for turning. Trim the seam allowance to 5mm. Nick the curved corners.IMG_2111Turn inside out, push out the corners with a poking tool. Press well, aligning the seam line to the fold. Top stitch all around. Press over the flap section as shown on the template. IMG_2114Pin to the coat in position as shown on the pattern. Tack stitch to hold. Sew all around a second line of stitching close to the outer edge and parallel to the top stitching. Reinforce the corners at the top just below the flap fold. Sew on a button at each pocket or leave without.

TIE BELT (optional)IMG_2104Pin the tie belt pieces RS together. Sew all around, leave a small opening at the centre for turning. Trim the seam allowance and nick the curved corners. IMG_2105Turn the tie inside out and push out the curved ends with a poking tool. Press well so that the seam line is in line with the fold all around.

IMG_2110Topstitch all around the outer edge.

BELT LOOPIMG_2112

Fold the loop piece in half then fold in 1cm each long side. Press. Fold again in half. Press.IMG_2113

Top stitch down each long side. Cut into two equal pieces. Press over 1cm at each end. IMG_2116Attach to the coat at each side in position as shown on the template with a box stitch.IMG_2118Sew your buttonholes. Use the template as a guide to the position.IMG_2120One last thing, you may like to insert small pieces of wondaweb under the facing to secure the facing in place. You could also stitch a few stitches at the shoulder seam to secure the neck facing.

Voila!

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sewgirl

 

 

 

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