SUKI KIMONO CARDIGAN
Suitable for beginners.
This is a loose fitting hip length kimono which looks great in all seasons, either for a special occasion or as a loose fitting cardigan. With a wide front band, two optional patch pockets, and french seams on the inside, its an easy, fun and quick to make.
I made this kimono in this beautiful Liberty pure silk satin, shown above, other suitable fabrics include viscose fabric, cotton, linen or any fabric that has a fluid drape quality.
It can also be made in thicker fabrics for colder days as a kind of jacket, which gives a completely different look.
Suki was demonstrated on The Sewing Quarter TV channel on 23rd April 2019 so if you fancy watching me make it here is a You tube link. Just scroll up to 3:00 to watch the one hour show.
Suki Kimono is sized from 8-20 (scroll down to see the finished measurements chart)
You can adjust the size and length.
SIZING UP A PATTERN
For a guide to how to size up the pattern, I have uploaded a link to a Youtube tutorial below to show you how to do this. Please note that you may need extra fabric when sizing up and layout may have to be adjusted, so check first before buying your fabric that you have enough fabric to fit all your adjusted pieces.
EXTENDING THE LENGTH
You can make the kimono longer by using the larger sizes length lines and still be within 1.5m fabric. (Of course you can make as long as you like but you will need to buy extra fabric in this case.) Make sure if you do lengthen to another size that you also cut the band pieces in the same size too, so for example, if you make a size 12 kimono but a size 20 in length, then cut out two size 20 band pieces….simple!
One other thing is that you can also lengthen a further 2cm by making a smaller hem on the lower edge, instead of 4cm as specified on the pattern. Important! remember to add on an extra 2cm to the band length to accommodate the extra length in the body in this case.
So the maximum length for 1.5m fabric, using the size 20 length line and a 2cm lower edge hem is 69cm approx.
The pattern is available to buy on the website, click on the link below for details.
Scroll down for a photo step-by-step tutorial showing how to make up Suki Kimono.
Tips for sewing silk/satin/ viscose:
When sewing silk use a finer thread and insert a ballpoint needle in your machine.
Use sharp pins and pin in the seam allowance to avoid leaving holes in the fabric.
Make sure scissors are also sharp and nick free.
Try not to handle the material unnecessarily which can cause it to fray.
Adjust your iron to a ‘silk’ setting and take care with steaming, it can cause water marks.
Lay a sheet, old blanket or duvet underneath your fabric when cutting out to prevent it moving about.
How to sew a FRENCH SEAM *Sew seams using a french seam. This is a technique used to conceal seams which are visible by stitching twice, once with the wrong sides of the fabric facing, then again with the right sides of the fabric facing. Its an ideal technique for fabrics that are light and prone to fraying and garments where the inside seam is exposed. To make a french seam, firstly pin, then sew a 5mm seam with the WRONG SIDES together. Next, fold your fabric pieces so the RIGHT SIDES are together and press and pin so that the seam is aligned to the fold. Stitch again, this time with a 1cm seam allowance, encasing the raw edges inside. Finally, press your french seam to one side.
FABRIC REQUIREMENTS: See the chart below for fabric requirements.
You will also need: thread, an iron, pins, a hand sewing needle, a poker (a chunky knitting needle is good or a chopstick).
Pattern pieces for FRONT (1), BACK (2), SLEEVE (3), FRONT BAND (4), POCKET (5)
Here we go!
CUTTING OUT THE PIECES –
Using the Layplans above as a guide, cut out the following pieces:
FRONT (1)– Cut two.
BACK (2) – Cut one on the fold.
FRONT BAND (4) – Cut cut two pieces.
POCKET (5)– Cut two pieces.
SLEEVE (3)– Cut two pieces on the fold of the fabric.
SEAM ALLOWANCE IS 1CM
SEWING THE KIMONO
Pin the front pieces to the back at the shoulder seams with the right sides together. Sew. Finish the raw edges with a zig zag or overlock to prevent fraying. Press the seam allowances flat towards the back piece. Topstitch on the right side. Now pin your sleeve piece to the body at the armhole edge, sew.
Press the seam allowance towards the sleeve. Top stitch. Repeat for the other sleeve.
Pin the front to back at the side edges with the WRONG sides together. Sew a 5mm seam.
Turn inside out so the RIGHT sides are together, press with the seam aligned with the fold. Pin. Sew another 1cm seam encasing all the raw edges. Press.
On the lower edge all around, fold over and press to the wrong side 1cm then again 3cm. Pin. Sew
Make the same hem on the sleeve raw edge.
SEWING THE FRONT BAND
Join the front band pieces at one short side to make one long strip with a 1cm seam allowance. Press the seam allowances open. Topstitch either side of the seamline.
Fold over and press 1cm all along one long side of band.
Starting at the centre of the back neck and with the right sides facing together, pin the unfolded long side of the band to the back neck and front at each side, pin all around to the front sides either side, aligning the raw edges as you go and make sure to leave 1cm of band fabric extending beyond the body front lower edge on each side.
Stitch a 1cm seam allowance all around from front left side to front right.
Press the band away from the body with the seam allowance pressed towards the band on the reverse side. Top stitch on the band right side.
At the far ends of the front band at each side, fold the strip ends in half widthways with the right sides together and the raw edges matching, opening out the 1cm fold a little at each end. Pin, then stitch across in line with the body front lower edge up to the fold line.
Trim the seam allowance to 5mm, cut across the corners of the seam allowance then turn inside out to right side, pushing out the corners gently with a poker.
Press the band over to the wrong side all around so that all raw edges are encased inside. Pin, then hand stitch the band at the folded edge all around with small slip stitches. Its a good idea to line up the fold of the band to the line of stitching previously made. Make sure your stitching is as neat as possible. If you would like to have front ties** on your kimono scroll to the bottom of this page for instructions to make and insert before sewing the band.
Finally press your kimono.
Finish the raw edges of two longer sides and one short side of the pocket pieces.
On the unfinished side, fold over to the wrong side 1cm, press then again 2cm. Press. Stitch.
Fold over and press 1cm on the 3 un-hemmed sides to the wrong side.
Place in position on to the kimono. Pin. Top stitch all around, reinforcing the top corners.
**FRONT TIES (optional)
Cut two pieces 60cm x 4cm.
Fold over 1cm to the wrong side each long side and press. Fold the piece over again in half so you have a piece 60cm x 1cm. Tuck under one raw end. Tip: secure the folded short end with a small piece of quilting tape or wondaweb. Stitch close to the folded edge. Press.
Insert your ties raw edge under the band approx 1cm s cure with a few hand stitches before hand stitching your front band.
MATCHING QUILTED CLUTCH PURSE
What a nice quick project to make out of the leftover fabric and a perfect accessory to match your kimono. This easy to make quilted clutch purse makes a lovely addition to any outfit for a special event. With its optional loop handle, useful for carrying lipstick, powder compact, money and keys.
Finished size: 23cm x 16cm approx
You will need:
One piece 41cm x 25cm (bag) and one piece 5cm x 30cm (handle).
One piece 41cm x 25cm.
One piece 41cm x 25cm in fusible H640 fleece Visilene wadding or wadding with fabric spray glue.
A magnetic clasp.
One gorgeous button
An invisible marker pen.
This is what you do…..
1. First spray glue your wadding to your outer bag piece or fuse with an iron if using the H640 Visilene.
2. Mark out lines at a 45 degree angle and 5cm or 2″ apart with a fabric invisible marker pen.
3. Stitch along the lines to make a criss cross quilting trellis pattern with a stitch length of 2.6.
4. Place your quilted piece on top of the lining piece with the right sides together. Pin together. Round off the two top corners using a saucer or small plate to mark out the curves, then trim.
5. Sew all around the edge of the piece with a 1cm seam allowance, leaving an opening of approx 4cm at the lower un curved edge at the side for turning. Nick across the corners and curved seam allowance with small V’s.
6. Turn your piece inside out and push out the corners. Press.
7. Make your loop handle. Fold in each long side 1cm and press. Fold in half lengthways. Press. Top stitch down each long side.
8. Insert your magnetic clasp (masculine side) at the rounded flap side, positioned at the centre, 2.5cm (1″) down from the top edge of the lining.
9. Fold your bag piece straight side up 13cm, with the wrong sides facing. Pin at the sides. Insert the handle loop raw ends, sandwiching them in between the folds, so the loop section is extended beyond the bag. Top stitch down each side 4mm (1/4″) from the edge.
10. Insert your magnetic clasp (female side) at the straight side, positioned at the centre, 7cm (2 3/4″”) down from the top edge of the outer fabric to match.
11. Stitch on a button at the flap outer side in the same position as the magnetic clasp.
There you have it!