Screen Shot 2016-02-05 at 15.45.55pattern available to buy from 

This is a pattern for a lovely matching lined hat, big beach bag and sunglasses case. Suitable for medium to heavyweight fabric such as cotton, denim, canvas or corduroy. Simple to make, the bag and purse have a magnetic clasp flap with button.

BAG MEASURES 43cm X 66cm (inc. handles)
SUNGLASSES CASE MEASURES 18cm x 12cm approx.

You will need:
BAG=1 metre of main fabric, 30cm of lining fabric, one magnetic clasp and one large (3cm) button.

PURSE= 25cm of main fabric, 25cm of lining fabric, 25cm of med weight fusible interfacing, one small magnetic clasp and one button.

Screen Shot 2016-02-05 at 16.47.33


Cut out your bag pieces following the layout diagram.
You will need:
Two bag pieces A and B together in main fabric (cut one piece on folded fabric) lay the pattern piece as close to the end of the fabric as possible and make sure you have placed it so you have enough fabric leftover for the facing piece.
Trim down the dotted line on the pattern then cut two pieces of facing piece B in main fabric (see layout diag) ie cut one on folded fabric and two pieces of lower piece A in lining fabric.
Cut two flap pieces (one on folded fabric).

Screen Shot 2016-02-05 at 16.47.49

Firstly pin the flap pieces together RST, sew around with a 1cm seam allowance. Nick curves then turn inside out pushing out the edges with a knitting needle or chopstick.
Attach one side of your magnetic clasp to the flap so nick two little holes on one layer only at the marker point. Push the prongs of the clasp through then push together on the inside.

Screen Shot 2016-02-05 at 16.47.56

With the RST pin together the lining piece A with the facing piece B then stitch a 1cm seam across. Repeat for other side. Top stitch on the RS.

Screen Shot 2016-02-05 at 16.48.04

Take one main bag piece pin the flap to the centre front top edge with the magnetic clasp facing up then tack stitch to secure in place, remove pins. (see pic).

Screen Shot 2016-02-05 at 16.48.19SEW UP THE SIDES
Now with the RST pin together the two main bag pieces at lower sides stitch a 1cm seam. Repeat for lining pieces but this time leave an opening in the lining for turning inside out.
Clip curved seams at corners.

Screen Shot 2016-02-05 at 16.48.36SEWING THE HANDLES
Turn the lining bag piece only inside out so the RS is visible.
Place one bag inside the other so the RST matching up all the raw edges of the handles on both sides, keep the flap tucked in between the bag and facing. Pin then stitch all around handles over the side seam then up and down the other side so your stitching finally ends where it began. Nick all curved seams and cut across corners (careful not to nick your stitching!). Turn your bag inside out through your opening.

Screen Shot 2016-02-05 at 16.48.47
Stitch the two front bag handles together with a square and a cross in the centre (see template).
Attach the other magnetic clasp in the bag front matching the position show as a X on the template.
Finally stitch up the opening in the lining.

There you have one great bag!

Now what about making a matching sunglasses case? ……..

CASECASE by Sewgirl



Screen Shot 2016-02-05 at 15.45.55                                         templates available to buy from IMG_1437

A fun hat project and bag and sunnies case to match. I used gorgeous “Aunties Attic’ fabric by Robert Kaufman but you could use any thicker cotton fabric such as cotton, denim, canvas or corduroy. Simple to make, the bag and purse have a magnetic clasp flap with button.

The hat comes in two brim sizes small (pictured) and large and fits a 57cm size head.

You will need: a sewing machine, an iron, needle and thread, pins and scissors.

MATERIALS REQUIRED: Hat (small brim)= 50cm main fabric, 20cm lining fabric and 50cm of med weight fusible interfacing.
Hat (large brim)= 60cm main fabric, 20cm lining and 60cm med weight fusible interfacing.


PATTERN LAYOUT Screen Shot 2016-02-05 at 15.37.36


CUTTING OUT THE PIECES- In the main fabric cut two BRIM pieces following the fabric layout as shown in DIAG A. ie place pattern pieces adjacent to the fold. Cut one BRIM piece in interfacing with pattern placed against the fold.
Now open fabric out and following the fabric layout DIAG B cut one SIDE PANEL in outer fabric, one piece in lining fabric and one in interfacing. Cut notches as indicated.

Cut out one CROWN piece in main fabric (DIAG C), one piece in lining and one in interfacing cut notches as indicated.


SEWING THE CROWN -Trim off 1.5 all around all the interfacing pieces outer edges then iron on to the main fabric pieces of crown, side panel and one of the brim pieces.

Screen Shot 2016-02-05 at 15.38.27
Fold the side panel in half with the right sides together (RST) and pin together at short side, then stitch a 1.5cm seam. Press seam open.

Pin the outer crown to side panel at notched edge with RST starting at the side seam, nick the edges of the side panel and crown so they fit snuggly together matching the notches as you go.
Tack stitch to hold pieces in place, then stitch on the machine with a 1.5cm seam allowance careful that you don’t stitch any folds into the seam.

Repeat in the same way for the crown lining and side panel so you have identical ‘caps’ in outer and lining fabrics.
Top stitch the main fabric ‘cap’ on the RS by stitching 4mm
below the seam.


SEWING THE BRIM – Take your two brim pieces and with the RST pin together at the short side then stitch a 1.5cm seam so you have two rings. With the RST pin the two brims together at the outer edge then stitch all around a 1.5cm seam.

Now trim this seam allowance to 6mm (1/4”) approx. Turn the brim inside out so the right side of the fabric is visible. Press and push out the seam edges all around and pin together the raw edges at top.


So back to the machine, adjust your stitch length to 3 and stitch lines all around your brim approx 1.5cm apart from the raw edge to the brim edge. Sew in ends. Press.

ATTACHING THE BRIM TO THE CROWN- Pin the raw edges of the brim to the raw edges of the outer side panel ‘cap’, start at the side seams then pin all around. Tack stitch to hold in place making sure the raw edges are lined up, clip seams if required. Stitch a 1.5cm seam all around hat. Press seam flat then top stitch on the RS if you fancy it.

1011JPGATTACHING THE CROWN LINING – Take the hat lining ‘cap’ and fold over the raw lower edge 1.5cm. Pin to the inside of the hat at the join wrong sides together. Hand stitch all around with little stitches so they are not too visible then turn your hat inside out and there you are one lovely hat!HAT by Sewgirl JPG

Copyright Sewgirl 2015 This pattern is not for commercial use


Screen Shot 2016-02-05 at 15.45.55DSCF9964pattern available to buy from 

This is a pattern for an easy to make and very cute pair of floral viscose shorts. Perfect for taking on holiday, they take up little room in your suitcase and viscose fabric doesn’t crease as much as cotton and drapes beautifully. With a comfortable elasticated waistband at the back only and two useful side pockets, whats not to love!

FABRIC REQUIREMENTS: 1 m floral med weight viscose fabric, 10cm x 42cm lightweight fusible interfacing, 50cm of 2.5cm width elastic.

EQUIPMENT- sewing machine, needle and thread, tape measure, pins, scissors and a safety pin.

Seam allowances are 1cm unless otherwise stated, raw edges must be finished either with a zig zag stitch or by using an overlocker.

Check your measurements against the chart for your size.Screen Shot 2016-02-04 at 17.10.28

CUTTING OUT THE PATTERN PIECES– Press your fabric and fold in half widthways so the selvedge edges are lined up and the RST. Lay your fabric out on a table and pin on your pattern pieces to the folded fabric see pic for layout guide pic 2. You will see the size markings at the sides, so cut out your pattern according to your size. Cut notches outwards away from seam.


Lay pattern pieces on the straight grain of fabric indicated by the arrows. When you cut out each piece on a double layer of fabric, you will get two pieces of each pattern piece mirrored.

3JPGCut the following pieces: 1 x FRONT (2 pieces altogether), 1 x BACK (2 pieces altogether),

1 x POCKET A (2 pieces altogether), 1 x POCKET B (2 pieces altogether)

then cut on a single layer of fabric the following: 1 WAISTBAND FRONT and BACK

and 1 WAISTBAND FRONT in lightweight fusible interfacing.

SEWING THE SHORTS FRONT –Firstly, remove your pins and paper pattern, take the FRONT piece and mark out your pleats with pins at each A , B, C, D position. Now fold over a pleat in the fabric so that A pin meets B pin and with the fold of the fabric at the reverse side and lay fold towards centre front. Pin to hold. see DIAG 1

Repeat with C and D so you have two pleats at the top edge folded towards the centre front on the reverse side.


Now repeat with other FRONT piece as before. Tack pleats to hold them secure then remove pins.

7Screen Shot 2016-02-04 at 16.49.25

Pin one POCKET A piece to one of the FRONT pieces at notched edge, in position as shown on the pattern see DIAG 2. Stitch with a 1cm seam allowance. Finish raw edges. Trim ends.

89Repeat for other FRONT piece.

Screen Shot 2016-02-04 at 16.49.32

10Fold each POCKET to reverse side of FRONT then press, so that folded edge is pushed out at the seam. Take one POCKET B piece and pin to POCKET A at outer edge. Stitch with a 1cm seam allowance, finish raw edges, trim ends.  See DIAG 3

11JPG12JPGLay each FRONT piece on a table and pin and tack stitch POCKETS at side seam and top edge to hold secure.

1314With right sides of fabric facing each other, sew FRONT pieces together at centre front with a 1cm seam allowance. Trim curved part of seam only to 5mm, finish raw edges. Press seam flat to one side.

BACK of FLORAL SHORTIES- With right sides of fabric facing each other, sew the two BACK pieces together at centre back with a 1cm seam allowance, trim curved part of seam to 5mm. Finish raw edges, trim ends. Press seam flat to one side.


17JPGPlace BACK and FRONT pieces together with right sides of fabric facing each other. Pin at each far side, matching raw edges, then stitch a 1cm seam at each side so BACK and FRONT are joined. Finish raw edges. Stitch crotch seam with a 1cm seam allowance. Finish raw edges.

MAKING THE WAISTBAND-Iron on the interfacing to the reverse side of WAISTBAND FRONT piece. Join the WAISTBAND FRONT and BACK pieces together at each short end with right sides of fabric facing each other, so you make a ring. Finish raw edge and press seam flat. Fold over and press waistband lengthways, so right sides of fabric are outermost and wrong sides facing each other.

With shorts turned right side out, take the waistband piece and, matching up side seams, pin to top edge of shorts so that raw edges are matching, make sure waistband front is lined up with front of shorts.

20JPGSew a 1cm seam allowance all around, leaving a 3cm opening at one side seam.


Finish raw edges together except at 3cm opening.

21Now to the elastic part. You need to place the elastic to the back waistband section only, adjust to fit, then stitch down at each side seam to secure inside. To do this, attach a safety pin to the end of the elastic and feed one end in through the 3cm opening and pull through the waistband front section until the end of elastic is at the opposite side seam to the 3cm opening with the remaining length of elastic extending around the waistband at the back of the shorts.

Stitch down across waistband seam to secure elastic in place at one side. Pull elastic through opening, pin, try shorts on and adjust elastic to fit. Trim excess elastic.

23Stitch across waistband at seam to secure elastic. Stitch seam opening and finish raw edge. Zig zag raw edges at lower edges of shorts legs then turn over 1cm hem, press, pin, then stitch all around.

24There you have one lovely pretty summer shorties.

Copyright Fiona Hesford 2014



Screen Shot 2016-02-05 at 15.45.55pattern available to buy from

This is a cute swingy skaters skirt and easy to make and wear made from gorgeous organic cotton jersey with a fabulous pony print in purple and white from: I added a couple of side pockets (I love a pocket but leave them out if you prefer) and theres no zip so its an easy pull on style.

TIPS FOR SEWING JERSEY-Use a jersey/stretch or ballpoint machine. I used a size 70. For stitching seams which will be stretched its best to stitch a small zig zag stitch ie 1.5 width and 2.2 length to allow for ‘give’.

Finish raw edges with a zig zag or overlocker.

FABRIC REQUIREMENTS: 1.2m fabric at 150cms wide or 1.4m of fabric if your fabric is 112cm wide

SIZE GUIDE Small = 8-10, Med = 12-14, Large = 16-18 Size info

Finished Hip measurements: 8 -10 (small) 87cm – 91.5cm , 12 -14 (med) 96cm – 102cm, 16 -18 (Large) 107 cm – 112cm

Finished length from top of waistband 48cm for all sizes.

TEMPLATE GUIDE: (1)= skirt, (2)= pocket, (3) = waistband.1JPG


Press your fabric and fold in half lengthways so the selvedges are lined up. Start by cutting out out your templates as follows:

Template 1: skirt With pattern lined up against the fold of the fabric cut out two pieces (front and back) cut along the required size line and cut notches outwards.

Template 2: pockets (optional) With the remainder fabric cut out the 4 pockets ie cut out two pattern pieces on folded fabric so you have four pieces altogether. Make sure the pattern is lined up to the straight grain of the fabric.

Template 3: (waistband) With the template lined up to the fold, cut one piece to the required size.


HOW TO SEW YOUR SKATING SKIRT-Starting with the side pockets and with RST lay a pocket piece on to the skirt at each side between the notches. Stitch a 1cm seam at pocket only. Finish raw edge of pocket seam and press pocket open away from skirt. Stitch again close to the seam (4mm) on the RS.

Repeat for all four pocket pieces so each skirt piece has a pocket piece at each side.


Lay one skirt piece on top of the other with RST. Pin at sides and around pockets matching up the raw edges. Stitch a 1cm seam and finish the raw edges together. Press.


WAISTBAND-Taking your waistband piece, fold over in half widthways matching up the short ends with RST. Stitch a 1cm seam along this short seam. Press seam open so you have a fabric ring.


Fold waistband strip in half along the long length with RST matching up the raw edges.


Pin to top raw edge of skirt all around, stretching it a little as you go so the waistband is distributed evenly all around. Tack stitch to hold in place, remove pins.8JPG

Stitch a 1cm seam with a small zig zag stitch and stretch a little as you go this will allow the seam to extend when stretched. Finish raw edges.


HEMMING THE SKIRT-Nearly done now so finally finish the raw lower edge of your skirt and turn up to the required length, pin then stitch all around close to edge on the WS. (NB. A 2cm hem will make the skirt 48cm long from the top of the waistband).IMG_1363

There you have one lovely skater skirt.



Screen Shot 2016-02-05 at 15.45.55pattern available to buy from

This is a loose fitting kimono which looks great worn with skinny jeans, shorts or dress up for a party. Its comes in  two lengths with a hem feature on the lower edges. I made this kimono in Liberty pure silk satin which is beautiful however working with silk or satin requires special care when sewing. Other suitable fabrics include viscose fabric or fabric that has a fluid drape quality.

Tips for sewing silk/satin viscose: when sewing silk use a fine thread and a sharp needle 60/10 or 70/11. Microtex needles are good or ‘sharps’. Use sharp pins and pin in the seam allowance to avoid leaving holes in the fabric. Make sure scissors are also sharp and nick free. Try not to handle the material unnecessarily which can cause it to fray. Turn your iron to a silk setting take care with steaming, it can cause water marks. Lay a sheet, old blanket or duvet underneath your fabric when cutting out to stop it slipping about.

FRENCH SEAM *Sew seams using a french seam. This is a technique used to conceal seams which are visible by stitching twice, once with the wrong sides of the fabric facing, then again with the right sides of the fabric facing. Its an ideal technique for fabrics that are light and prone to fraying. To make a french seam, firstly pin, then sew a 1cm seam with the WS together. Trim down seam allowance to .5cm. Next, press over and pin so that the RS are together and the seam is aligned to the fold and stitch again with a 1cm seam allowance so encasing the raw edges inside. Press to one side.

YOUR DRESS SIZE /FINISHED LENGTH-SMALL 8-10 /64cm, MED 12-14 /64cm, LARGE 16-18 /64cm      Size info

FABRIC REQUIREMENTS: 1.50m of viscose or silky fabric (at least 140cms wide), some fine thread, an iron, sharp pins, hand sewing needle, a poker (a chunky knitting needle is good or a chopstick).1JPG


Here we go!

CUTTING OUT THE PIECES – With the fabric print facing the right direction, take pattern piece BACK and lay on the fabric, line up the centre front edge to the fold line as marked on the pattern. Place pattern FRONT beside it. Be careful to lay your pattern straight ie in line with the grain of the fabric. Pin. Cut around each piece following the line for your size. So you should have 1 back piece and two front pieces (left and right). If you would like to pattern match your fabric at the front cut out each front piece separately. Fold the remaining fabric so that the RS are together and the selvedge edges meet the centre of the fabric. (see Layout B).

Pin your SLEEVE pattern piece adjacent to fold of fabric on one side as indicated on the pattern, cut out, repeat for second sleeve on opposite side with pattern turned WS up.You should now have two sleeve pieces.Lay your FRONT BAND pattern piece on to folded fabric, line up the centre front edge to the fold line as marked on the pattern. Pin then cut out. Repeat so you have two FRONT BANDS strips altogether each measuring 80cm long. Remove pins and drape the cut out pieces over the back of a chair.

5JPGSEWING THE KIMONO-Start by joining the front pieces to the back at the shoulder seams, so lay the back piece on a table with RS facing up and lay the front pieces on either side matching up the raw edges at the shoulders. Pin, then stitch a 1cm seam allowance on both sides. Finish the raw edge with a zig zag or overlock to prevent fraying. Press seam flat towards the back.6JPG78aJPG8bJPG

Now join the front and back to the sleeves and this time we are going to sew with a french seam* (see the ‘Tips for sewing silk section’ for instructions how to sew a french seam). Press your seams to one side towards the sleeve. Now pin the sleeve and body together at sides with the WS of fabric together. Stitch together the sides again with a french seam* as before. Press.10JPG11JPG13a

HEMS PIC 10/11/13/13a/13b-Fold over and press 1cm at the bottom raw edge of body front and back. Next fold over a 4cm hem, press and pin to hold. Stitch all around, close to inner fold. Press. Turn sleeve inside out so WS facing. Fold over and press 1cm around raw edge of sleeve, then fold over a 4cm hem, pin then stitch all around close to inner fold. Press.

SEWING ON THE FRONT BAND-Join strips at one short side with a 1cm seam allowance, press seam open. Trim corners of seam allowance. PIC 14 . Fold over and press 1cm all along one long side of band.


With RS of fabric together, pin the unfolded long side of the strip to back neck and front side, start by aligning the band join to the centre of the back neck, then pin all around to front sides either side, matching raw edges as you go and make sure to leave at least 2cm of strip fabric extending beyond the body front lower edge on each side. Stitch a 1cm seam allowance all around from front left side to front right.


 At the far ends of the front band at each side, fold the strip ends in half widthways with the RS together and raw edges matching, opening out the 1cm fold a little at each end. Pin then stitch across in line with the body front lower edge. Trim seam allowance to 0.5cm then turn to right side, pushing out the corners gently with a poker.

Press raw edges over on the reverse side so they are all tucked in (you could trim down any excess seam allowance to reduce bulk if required). Press band over so raw edges are all encased inside all around, pin, then hand stitch band all around on inner side with small over stitches. Its a good idea to line up the fold of the band to the line of stitching previously made. PIC 21/22


LONGER LENGTH KIMONO WITH TIE- To make a longer length kimono add on another 12cm at lower edge of body FRONT and BACK and add another 6cm on to each front band strip, or lengthen as long as you like, just be sure to add on the extra length to the front band. To make a tie belt cut two strips of about 90cm each by 10cm wide. Join together at one short side with the RS together. Press seam open then fold strip over lengthways and press so the raw edges are matching. Pin then stitch a 1cm seam allowance all around the two short sides and long raw edge side leaving a 3cm approx opening at the centre. Clip across corners of seam allowance, then turn inside out through the opening, pushing out the corners with a chunky knitting needle or chopstick. Press then stitch up opening by hand or on machine.


Copyright Fiona Hesford 2014 All rights reserved

Matilda Dress


Screen Shot 2016-02-05 at 15.45.55pattern available to buy from 

Matilda dress is an over the head easy to wear everyday tunic. It has four sections on the front and top stitched along the seams ideal for plain denim fabrics, linen or cotton fabrics with a small all over print (no pattern matching yippee!) Its got two deep pockets (I love a good pocket), length set in sleeves, flattering A-line shape and a back opening with retro rouleau and button detail.

Materials required:

Fabric 150cms wide (with or without nap) you need: 1.70m

Fabric 112cms wide (no nap) you need: 2 m

Fabric at 112cms wide (with nap) you need: 2.6m

Also Light or Med weight fusible Interfacing 25cms, a reel of thread and 1 button.

All seams are 1cm unless otherwise specified. Finish all raw edges with a zig zag or overlocker.

Tips on top stitching: Set the machine needle position to B (ie shifted to one side) and adjust stitch length to 2.4. Line up the seam to the centre of the foot as you sew and your line of topstitching will consistently be 4mm away from the centre seam.

SIZE GUIDE: SMALL = 8-10, MED = 12-14, LARGE = 16-18

Finished garment bust: S= 95.5cm, Med = 104cm, Large = 114cm. Finished length (inc 3cm hem) : S = 90cm, Med= 91.5cm, Large = 116cm

TEMPLATE GUIDE: (1)= Upper Front, (2)= Lower Front, (3) = Upper Back, (4) = Lower back, (5) = Sleeve,(6) = Front facing, (7) = Back facing, (8) = Pocket, (9) = Rouleau.

LAYOUT FABRIC 150cms                             LAYOUT FABRIC 112cms (no nap)3jpg4JPG4a JPG

CUTTING OUT THE PATTERN PIECES Press your fabric and fold in half lengthways so the selvedges are lined up RST. Start by laying out all your pattern pieces using the layout diagram as a guide to positioning your pieces. Pin, cut out pieces as below (NB cut notches away from garment). Mark dart dots, back opening and sleeve head marker dots with tailor tacks.

Templates 1 (Upper Front), 2 (Lower Front), 3 (Upper Back), 5 (Sleeve), 7 (Back Facing): Cut two pieces on folded fabric (line up the pattern on the straight grain of the fabric).

Template 4: (Lower Back) and 6 (front facing) Line up pattern against the fold and cut out 1 piece.

Template 8: (Pocket ): Cut one piece on folded fabric so you have two pieces altogether (call these Pocket A pieces) then trim off shaded area of pattern and cut a further one piece on folded fabric so you have another two pieces (these will be Pocket B pieces).

Template 9 (Rouleau): Lay your pattern on the diagonal grain of the fabric and cut out one piece.

Interfacing: Cut out 1 front facing and 2 back facings in interfacing.



SEW THE DARTS -Stitch your darts at each Upper Front piece. Press dart downwards.



SEWING THE POCKETS-Lay one pocket B piece at each Lower Front side at matching up notches at upper curved edge and with the RST. Stitch a 1cm seam along the curved edge. Nick curves, turn to RS. Press, top stitch along same curved edge on RS.


Pin lower curved edge of Pocket A to Pocket B piece, stitch 1cm around curved edge, finish raw edges. Tack stitch pocket at top and side edges to secure in place to garment. Repeat for other side.



SEWING THE FRONT PIECE -Lay your Lower and Upper Front pieces on a table RST. Matching the raw edges, pin at centre seam and stitch a 1cm seam on each side. Press seam upwards, finish raw edges. Top stitch on RS 4mm approx above the seam. 13 PG


Now lay the left and right front pieces together with RST. Pin at centre seam, stitch together with a 1cm seam. Press seam open, finish raw edges separately so the seam is flat open on the reverse. Sew two lines of top stitching on RS and LS 4mm approx away from centre seam.


SEWING THE BACK PIECE -Pin together the left and right upper back pieces at centre back seam with RST. Stitch up to the marker point where the opening will be. Finish raw edges separately along the complete length of the CB seam and press flat open. Top stitch on RS two lines either side of CB seam. Pin the top raw edge of Lower Back piece to lower edge of Upper back piece with RST. Sew a 1cm seam. Finish raw edges, press seam upwards. Sew a single line of topstitching on RS. With RST join back to front at shoulder seams with a 1cm seam allowance. Finish raw edges. Press seams to back.


SEWING THE SLEEVES-Adjust your stitch length on the machine to the longest length and your tension dial to loosest (usually 9). Stitch a line 1cm in from raw edge between marker dots (as indicated on the template). Readjust your machine settings back to normal. Pull one thread on each side to draw up stitches ‘easing’ in the sleeve head. You don’t want the fabric to gather up too much it just needs enough to ease it into the sleeve head. Pin the sleeve head into the armhole with RST notches to the back. Adjust easing so sleeve fits snuggly. Tack stitch sleeve head. Stitch a 1cm seam around sleeve head. Finish raw edges. Nick any curve seam allowances. Press. Top stitch on RS (optional). 23JPG

Stitch the front and back together at side seams of body and sleeves with RST. Finish raw edges. 26aJPG26bJPG

MAKING THE ROULEAU- Firstly make your rouleau by folding the fabric strip in half lengthways with the RST, pin then stitch along the long side leaving a long end at one side so you have 0.5cm finished width approx. Trim down your seam allowance to 0.5cm. Thread a chunky needle with the end and pull through the little tube and out the other end. Pull the threads and the tube should turn itself inside out. (very satisfying!). Place on one side.24
SEWING THE NECKLINE -Iron on the interfacing to the reverse side of front and back facing pieces. Join the back pieces to the front at the short sides with RST. Press seam flat open. Finish outer curved raw edge.


27JPGPin to neckline all around with RST. Insert your rouleau loop into the CB seam allowance adjust so theres a big enough loop for your button, pin to hold. Tack stitch all around neckline and down each back facing short side at seam allowance. Stitch on machine all around neck edge then remove tacking.28

Finish raw edges, nick curves. Trim across corners (careful not to cut your stitches) and excess rouleau ends. Turn to RS pushing out corners with a poker. Stitch a few hand stitches at the facing side seams to the inside seam allowance to secure in place. 29JPG

Finally sew on a button on opposite side to rouleau.

HEMMING YOUR TUNIC DRESS-Press over hem 1cm on lower edge of dress and sleeve then fold up again to the required length. Press, pin and stitch all around close to the inner fold. NB For the sleeve hem remove the machine front table so you can insert sleeve edge more easily.


There you have one lovely everyday tunic dress.

Copyright Fiona Hesford 2014 All rights reserved