Click on the link above to open a photo step by step file for making an A-line skirt
Making Rosalind is easy just a couple of hours of fun.
Download the pattern from www.sewgirl.co.ukGathered at the neckline
Boxy shape sits on the hips.
Short capped off the shoulder sleeves
Cute little covered and slit opening at the back for a retro look
Pic 1Pic 2Pic 3Pic 4
Pic 5Pic 6/7Pic 8Pic 9
Pic 10Pic 11DIAGRAMS
cutting out the pieces (pic 1)
sewing the back seam (pic 3)
sewing the front to back at sides
sewing the straps (pics 4/5/6/7)
sewing the facings (pics 8/12/13)
hemming (pic 14)
sewing the pockets (pics 15/16/17/18/19)
pattern available to buy from http://www.sewgirl.co.uk
This is a pattern for a lovely matching lined hat, big beach bag and sunglasses case. Suitable for medium to heavyweight fabric such as cotton, denim, canvas or corduroy. Simple to make, the bag and purse have a magnetic clasp flap with button.
BAG MEASURES 43cm X 66cm (inc. handles)
SUNGLASSES CASE MEASURES 18cm x 12cm approx.
You will need:
BAG=1 metre of main fabric, 30cm of lining fabric, one magnetic clasp and one large (3cm) button.
PURSE= 25cm of main fabric, 25cm of lining fabric, 25cm of med weight fusible interfacing, one small magnetic clasp and one button.
HOW TO MAKE YOUR BIG BAG
CUTTING OUT THE PIECES
Cut out your bag pieces following the layout diagram.
You will need:
Two bag pieces A and B together in main fabric (cut one piece on folded fabric) lay the pattern piece as close to the end of the fabric as possible and make sure you have placed it so you have enough fabric leftover for the facing piece.
Trim down the dotted line on the pattern then cut two pieces of facing piece B in main fabric (see layout diag) ie cut one on folded fabric and two pieces of lower piece A in lining fabric.
Cut two flap pieces (one on folded fabric).
Firstly pin the flap pieces together RST, sew around with a 1cm seam allowance. Nick curves then turn inside out pushing out the edges with a knitting needle or chopstick.
Attach one side of your magnetic clasp to the flap so nick two little holes on one layer only at the marker point. Push the prongs of the clasp through then push together on the inside.
STITCH TOGETHER THE INNER LINING
With the RST pin together the lining piece A with the facing piece B then stitch a 1cm seam across. Repeat for other side. Top stitch on the RS.
Take one main bag piece pin the flap to the centre front top edge with the magnetic clasp facing up then tack stitch to secure in place, remove pins. (see pic).
SEW UP THE SIDES
Now with the RST pin together the two main bag pieces at lower sides stitch a 1cm seam. Repeat for lining pieces but this time leave an opening in the lining for turning inside out.
Clip curved seams at corners.
SEWING THE HANDLES
Turn the lining bag piece only inside out so the RS is visible.
Place one bag inside the other so the RST matching up all the raw edges of the handles on both sides, keep the flap tucked in between the bag and facing. Pin then stitch all around handles over the side seam then up and down the other side so your stitching finally ends where it began. Nick all curved seams and cut across corners (careful not to nick your stitching!). Turn your bag inside out through your opening.
Stitch the two front bag handles together with a square and a cross in the centre (see template).
Attach the other magnetic clasp in the bag front matching the position show as a X on the template.
Finally stitch up the opening in the lining.
There you have one great bag!
Now what about making a matching sunglasses case? ……..
templates available to buy from http://www.sewgirl.co.uk
A fun hat project and bag and sunnies case to match. I used gorgeous “Aunties Attic’ fabric by Robert Kaufman but you could use any thicker cotton fabric such as cotton, denim, canvas or corduroy. Simple to make, the bag and purse have a magnetic clasp flap with button.
The hat comes in two brim sizes small (pictured) and large and fits a 57cm size head.
You will need: a sewing machine, an iron, needle and thread, pins and scissors.
MATERIALS REQUIRED: Hat (small brim)= 50cm main fabric, 20cm lining fabric and 50cm of med weight fusible interfacing.
Hat (large brim)= 60cm main fabric, 20cm lining and 60cm med weight fusible interfacing.
HAT PATTERN PIECES: CROWN, SIDE PANEL and BRIM (short or large).
CUTTING OUT THE PIECES- In the main fabric cut two BRIM pieces following the fabric layout as shown in DIAG A. ie place pattern pieces adjacent to the fold. Cut one BRIM piece in interfacing with pattern placed against the fold.
Now open fabric out and following the fabric layout DIAG B cut one SIDE PANEL in outer fabric, one piece in lining fabric and one in interfacing. Cut notches as indicated.
Cut out one CROWN piece in main fabric (DIAG C), one piece in lining and one in interfacing cut notches as indicated.
SEWING THE CROWN -Trim off 1.5 all around all the interfacing pieces outer edges then iron on to the main fabric pieces of crown, side panel and one of the brim pieces.
Fold the side panel in half with the right sides together (RST) and pin together at short side, then stitch a 1.5cm seam. Press seam open.
Pin the outer crown to side panel at notched edge with RST starting at the side seam, nick the edges of the side panel and crown so they fit snuggly together matching the notches as you go.
Tack stitch to hold pieces in place, then stitch on the machine with a 1.5cm seam allowance careful that you don’t stitch any folds into the seam.
Repeat in the same way for the crown lining and side panel so you have identical ‘caps’ in outer and lining fabrics.
Top stitch the main fabric ‘cap’ on the RS by stitching 4mm
below the seam.
SEWING THE BRIM – Take your two brim pieces and with the RST pin together at the short side then stitch a 1.5cm seam so you have two rings. With the RST pin the two brims together at the outer edge then stitch all around a 1.5cm seam.
Now trim this seam allowance to 6mm (1/4”) approx. Turn the brim inside out so the right side of the fabric is visible. Press and push out the seam edges all around and pin together the raw edges at top.
So back to the machine, adjust your stitch length to 3 and stitch lines all around your brim approx 1.5cm apart from the raw edge to the brim edge. Sew in ends. Press.
ATTACHING THE BRIM TO THE CROWN- Pin the raw edges of the brim to the raw edges of the outer side panel ‘cap’, start at the side seams then pin all around. Tack stitch to hold in place making sure the raw edges are lined up, clip seams if required. Stitch a 1.5cm seam all around hat. Press seam flat then top stitch on the RS if you fancy it.
ATTACHING THE CROWN LINING – Take the hat lining ‘cap’ and fold over the raw lower edge 1.5cm. Pin to the inside of the hat at the join wrong sides together. Hand stitch all around with little stitches so they are not too visible then turn your hat inside out and there you are one lovely hat!
Copyright Sewgirl 2015 This pattern is not for commercial use www.sewgirl.co.uk
pattern available to buy from http://www.sewgirl.co.uk
This is a pattern for an easy to make and very cute pair of floral viscose shorts. Perfect for taking on holiday, they take up little room in your suitcase and viscose fabric doesn’t crease as much as cotton and drapes beautifully. With a comfortable elasticated waistband at the back only and two useful side pockets, whats not to love!
FABRIC REQUIREMENTS: 1 m floral med weight viscose fabric, 10cm x 42cm lightweight fusible interfacing, 50cm of 2.5cm width elastic.
EQUIPMENT- sewing machine, needle and thread, tape measure, pins, scissors and a safety pin.
Seam allowances are 1cm unless otherwise stated, raw edges must be finished either with a zig zag stitch or by using an overlocker.
Check your measurements against the chart for your size.
CUTTING OUT THE PATTERN PIECES– Press your fabric and fold in half widthways so the selvedge edges are lined up and the RST. Lay your fabric out on a table and pin on your pattern pieces to the folded fabric see pic for layout guide pic 2. You will see the size markings at the sides, so cut out your pattern according to your size. Cut notches outwards away from seam.
Lay pattern pieces on the straight grain of fabric indicated by the arrows. When you cut out each piece on a double layer of fabric, you will get two pieces of each pattern piece mirrored.
Cut the following pieces: 1 x FRONT (2 pieces altogether), 1 x BACK (2 pieces altogether),
1 x POCKET A (2 pieces altogether), 1 x POCKET B (2 pieces altogether)
then cut on a single layer of fabric the following: 1 WAISTBAND FRONT and BACK
and 1 WAISTBAND FRONT in lightweight fusible interfacing.
SEWING THE SHORTS FRONT –Firstly, remove your pins and paper pattern, take the FRONT piece and mark out your pleats with pins at each A , B, C, D position. Now fold over a pleat in the fabric so that A pin meets B pin and with the fold of the fabric at the reverse side and lay fold towards centre front. Pin to hold. see DIAG 1
Repeat with C and D so you have two pleats at the top edge folded towards the centre front on the reverse side.
Now repeat with other FRONT piece as before. Tack pleats to hold them secure then remove pins.
Pin one POCKET A piece to one of the FRONT pieces at notched edge, in position as shown on the pattern see DIAG 2. Stitch with a 1cm seam allowance. Finish raw edges. Trim ends.
Repeat for other FRONT piece.
Fold each POCKET to reverse side of FRONT then press, so that folded edge is pushed out at the seam. Take one POCKET B piece and pin to POCKET A at outer edge. Stitch with a 1cm seam allowance, finish raw edges, trim ends. See DIAG 3
Lay each FRONT piece on a table and pin and tack stitch POCKETS at side seam and top edge to hold secure.
With right sides of fabric facing each other, sew FRONT pieces together at centre front with a 1cm seam allowance. Trim curved part of seam only to 5mm, finish raw edges. Press seam flat to one side.
BACK of FLORAL SHORTIES- With right sides of fabric facing each other, sew the two BACK pieces together at centre back with a 1cm seam allowance, trim curved part of seam to 5mm. Finish raw edges, trim ends. Press seam flat to one side.
Place BACK and FRONT pieces together with right sides of fabric facing each other. Pin at each far side, matching raw edges, then stitch a 1cm seam at each side so BACK and FRONT are joined. Finish raw edges. Stitch crotch seam with a 1cm seam allowance. Finish raw edges.
MAKING THE WAISTBAND-Iron on the interfacing to the reverse side of WAISTBAND FRONT piece. Join the WAISTBAND FRONT and BACK pieces together at each short end with right sides of fabric facing each other, so you make a ring. Finish raw edge and press seam flat. Fold over and press waistband lengthways, so right sides of fabric are outermost and wrong sides facing each other.
With shorts turned right side out, take the waistband piece and, matching up side seams, pin to top edge of shorts so that raw edges are matching, make sure waistband front is lined up with front of shorts.
Sew a 1cm seam allowance all around, leaving a 3cm opening at one side seam.
Finish raw edges together except at 3cm opening.
Now to the elastic part. You need to place the elastic to the back waistband section only, adjust to fit, then stitch down at each side seam to secure inside. To do this, attach a safety pin to the end of the elastic and feed one end in through the 3cm opening and pull through the waistband front section until the end of elastic is at the opposite side seam to the 3cm opening with the remaining length of elastic extending around the waistband at the back of the shorts.
Stitch down across waistband seam to secure elastic in place at one side. Pull elastic through opening, pin, try shorts on and adjust elastic to fit. Trim excess elastic.
Stitch across waistband at seam to secure elastic. Stitch seam opening and finish raw edge. Zig zag raw edges at lower edges of shorts legs then turn over 1cm hem, press, pin, then stitch all around.
There you have one lovely pretty summer shorties.
Copyright Fiona Hesford 2014 http://www.sewgirl.co.uk
pattern available to buy from http://www.sewgirl.co.uk
This is a cute swingy skaters skirt and easy to make and wear made from gorgeous organic cotton jersey with a fabulous pony print in purple and white from: kitschycoo.bigcartel.com. I added a couple of side pockets (I love a pocket but leave them out if you prefer) and theres no zip so its an easy pull on style.
TIPS FOR SEWING JERSEY-Use a jersey/stretch or ballpoint machine. I used a size 70. For stitching seams which will be stretched its best to stitch a small zig zag stitch ie 1.5 width and 2.2 length to allow for ‘give’.
Finish raw edges with a zig zag or overlocker.
FABRIC REQUIREMENTS: 1.2m fabric at 150cms wide or 1.4m of fabric if your fabric is 112cm wide
SIZE GUIDE Small = 8-10, Med = 12-14, Large = 16-18 Size info
Finished Hip measurements: 8 -10 (small) 87cm – 91.5cm , 12 -14 (med) 96cm – 102cm, 16 -18 (Large) 107 cm – 112cm
Finished length from top of waistband 48cm for all sizes.
TEMPLATE GUIDE: (1)= skirt, (2)= pocket, (3) = waistband.
CUTTING OUT THE PATTERN PIECES
Press your fabric and fold in half lengthways so the selvedges are lined up. Start by cutting out out your templates as follows:
Template 1: skirt With pattern lined up against the fold of the fabric cut out two pieces (front and back) cut along the required size line and cut notches outwards.
Template 2: pockets (optional) With the remainder fabric cut out the 4 pockets ie cut out two pattern pieces on folded fabric so you have four pieces altogether. Make sure the pattern is lined up to the straight grain of the fabric.
Template 3: (waistband) With the template lined up to the fold, cut one piece to the required size.
HOW TO SEW YOUR SKATING SKIRT-Starting with the side pockets and with RST lay a pocket piece on to the skirt at each side between the notches. Stitch a 1cm seam at pocket only. Finish raw edge of pocket seam and press pocket open away from skirt. Stitch again close to the seam (4mm) on the RS.
Repeat for all four pocket pieces so each skirt piece has a pocket piece at each side.
Lay one skirt piece on top of the other with RST. Pin at sides and around pockets matching up the raw edges. Stitch a 1cm seam and finish the raw edges together. Press.
WAISTBAND-Taking your waistband piece, fold over in half widthways matching up the short ends with RST. Stitch a 1cm seam along this short seam. Press seam open so you have a fabric ring.
Fold waistband strip in half along the long length with RST matching up the raw edges.
Pin to top raw edge of skirt all around, stretching it a little as you go so the waistband is distributed evenly all around. Tack stitch to hold in place, remove pins.
Stitch a 1cm seam with a small zig zag stitch and stretch a little as you go this will allow the seam to extend when stretched. Finish raw edges.
HEMMING THE SKIRT-Nearly done now so finally finish the raw lower edge of your skirt and turn up to the required length, pin then stitch all around close to edge on the WS. (NB. A 2cm hem will make the skirt 48cm long from the top of the waistband).
There you have one lovely skater skirt.